Multi-port steamer

[John Ross]

Thank you Ed.
It sounds like a really neat thing.
Your description,was good enough, that I may try and build one.
I can see where it might have an application in steam voicing, a
la
Roger Jolly.
Regards,
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
piano.tech@ns.sympatico.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: <A440A@AOL.COM>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2001 9:49 AM
Subject: Multi-port steamer


> John asks:
> <<What is a multiport steamer?
>
> I have heard of the Sgt. Steamer, but consider it just too
>
> expensive, for all the use I would give it.>>
>
>     Years ago, I made a steamer for key bushing work.  I prefer
steam because
> it sizes the balance holes, works on any glue, and doesn't
stain the
> keybuttons.  It is also fast.
>    I used a 5 lb. fire-extinguisher,  the metal kind.  It is
about 4" in dia.
> and about 14 inches long.  I removed the valve on top and
plugged the hole
> with a large bolt cut to fit.  at this point, I have a closed
cylinder.  I
> then drilled a 2" hole in the other end, the flat "bottom" of
the
> extinguisher, and brazed the mounting plate for a hot-water
heater's element.
>  This allowed me to install a heating element designed for a
large hot water
> tank.
>    I drilled a row of holes (5 of them) in a line across the
top, and
> installed some "zerk" grease fittings which I had drilled out
to about 3/32".
>  These are the nozzles.  I also drilled a "fill" hole a little
offside of the
> top, and plugged it with a rubber stopper.  The rig rests in a
cradle,
> sideways, with the nozzles pointing up.  Filled about 2/3rds
with water and
> using a 220 volt element on a 110 line,  it generates five low
pressure
> columns of steam and water vapor.  (a rheostat connected to a
110 volt
> element was the original approach, but a borrower burned it out
by forgetting
> to keep water in it.  He replaced the element with a 220 unit
which happens
> to be just right for making steam!)
>     The cradle itself has rests on either side, and they are
adjustable so
> that the keys can be suspended over the jets.  Fronts are done
by using a box
> placed off to the side and hanging the front of the key over
the rest so that
> the steam hits right in the mortise.
>    Some of the older hide glue jobs require very little steam,
so I drop a
> nail in three of the jets and just work two keys at a time,
alternating so
> that I pick a key up and put the next one down while I pull
felt.  More
> stubborn glue requires longer heat, so I may have four keys
hanging over the
> steam as I work through them.  The important thing is that the
length of
> steaming be matched to your work speed to loosen the felt with
the least
> amount of heat and water.
>    The fire-extinguisher was a give-away, the heater element
cost $4.95 (in
> 1983), the brazing cost another $10. Time involved was probably
three hours.
> I have used it for hundreds of bushing jobs and it will
probably outlast me.
>    I had wished for an insulated hose which I might attach and
have steam
> available in more areas, but have not solved the
cooling/condensation/water
> splatter problem.  Anybody got any ideas on that angle?
(wouldn't it be
> great to be able to remove a soundboard for repair and
reinstallation with
> new crown?) .
> Regards,
> Ed Foote
>
>