Securing bridge pins with epoxy: was Pinblock Plugs

[Farrell]

> On most restringing jobs I now repin the bridge and secure the new pins
with
> the West System epoxy.  In fact, I usually sand the string grooves out of
> the bridge and renotch as well.  I think the termination is greatly
improved
> by both having a pin without string cuts and by securing it with the
epoxy.
> The tonal benefit was so evident after the first time I did it that I
> decided to make it a more standard procedure.

Ditto. That's the way I do it now if bridge cap and soundboard stay put.
Excellent results.

Terry Farrell
Piano Tuning & Service
Tampa, Florida
mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Love" <davidlovepianos@hotmail.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2001 3:08 AM
Subject: Re: Securing bridge pins with epoxy: was Pinblock Plugs


> Roger:
>
> On most restringing jobs I now repin the bridge and secure the new pins
with
> the West System epoxy.  In fact, I usually sand the string grooves out of
> the bridge and renotch as well.  I think the termination is greatly
improved
> by both having a pin without string cuts and by securing it with the
epoxy.
> The tonal benefit was so evident after the first time I did it that I
> decided to make it a more standard procedure.
>
> By the way, thank you (and also Jon Page) for the drawings of the hammer
> tapering jig for hammers with shanks.
>
> David Love
>
>
> >From: jolly roger <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
> >Reply-To: pianotech@ptg.org
> >To: pianotech@ptg.org
> >Subject: Re: Pinblock Plugs
> >Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2001 10:12:43 -0600
> >
> >At 07:05 AM 3/13/01 -0500, you wrote:
> > >The epoxy I have used, and I believe what Roger Jolly uses, is West
> >System
> > >epoxy - and the entire philosophy of its engineering is to bond wood.
It
> >was
> > >originally designed for cold molding wooden boats together. West System
> > >becomes one with the wood.
> >
> >Hi Terry,
> >               You are correct, I use either West System, or Another
brand
> >Cold Cure. And have had excellent results with both.
> >I have made effective repairs with smaller sized plugs,  than the 1/2" on
> >some pianos that have small plate holes.  Drilled the block to size of a
#6
> >tuningpin. turned a plug on the lathe, to suit, redrill for a #2 pin.
> >And all worked fine.
> >I have have found there  is quite a bit of wicking type action with the
> >West system  product.
> >
> >When using it for bridge pins, it is common to see the some of the glue
> >sqeezing up the side of an adjacent pin. If there is any cavity in the
> >material it will find and seal it.
> >On many of our major jobs we change bridge pins and lightly swab the
holes
> >with epoxy, the bridge pins may look secure, but it is always suprising
to
> >watch how the  when inserting the pin the epoxy bubbles in an adjacent
> >hole.   This treatment really reduces the number of false strings.
> >Before destringing, we carefully listen to individual strings, move the
> >string out of the V bar cup and seat at the bridge.  this will help to
> >determine weather to change the pins and swab the holes.
> >I think this teatment may reduce the effect of humidity swings on the
pins
> >and holes, but I have no evidence to prove this. Just a gut feel. <G>
> >
> >I do know solid termination is a must for optimum power and sustain.
> >
> >Any one else tried this?
> >
> >Roger
> >
>
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