removing bridge pins that have been EPOXIED!!!!!

[Erwinpiano]

   Regards To List

       For all you epoxing whirlwinds out there who just can't wait to glue
all those bridge pins back in place let me issue a word of caution.  I hope
when all those bridges need to have the caps replaced that you all are the
ones that have the unfortunate displeasure of removing them.

  Although the tonal results are improved by epoxy repair may I humbly
suggest that what the bridge really neededis new wood.    Not only that but
in most cases it's only the very top of the  pinhole that's the problem  and
if epoxy is used  (I) try to focus the application at the point. No doubt
many of you have used the C. A. glues for this as I have and when I do am
still trying to keep it at the top although this is difficult.

 I realize that new wood is not always feasible and the quality of many
pianos  will never warrant a new board or bridge so epoxy away.  I have done
it  myself many times.  But for Steinways Masons etc that is where new wood
would be warranted above the rest.

    My shop has recently contracted a bellyjob on an Swy O that has the pins
all but permanently installed in with epoxy.  Usually if the bridges are
getting caps the pins are loose and the wood degraded and the pins easily
removed.  Not so if the pins are epoxied in and  it can be next to
impossible to remove.
 On this O I almost considered cutting off the top half of the bridge below
the pins and  because the pins were SSSSOOOOOOOO DERN TIGHT. yes I'm
shouting.  Was greatly incensed with the makers of epoxy at that moment.
Instead of the usual you know hr. or hr. and a half to remove these, it took
four torturous hours of heating the pins/bridge to the point of blackening
the bridge top to get them out. We were using the offset nosed vise grips
and the appropriately placed pry blocks which saved my  hands from a
permanent case of carpo tunnel and minmized the bruises and swelling.
 Fortunately there is enough left of the bridge caps to get a pattern
although I do have others fortunately.  I'm billing the tech an extra $200
for the trouble and in the future will make it a point to ask if the pins
have been permanately installed. If the answer is yes I think I'll just
offer them a $2oo.oo discount and let them do the removal and I'm betin
there will be some twice thinking bout epoxy repairin after that.

   My last heritical note is that I loathe having to use epoxy it's such
nasty messy stuff. That being said I'm aware that it has many uses but for
me it's a last resort.  My goal in the shop is to use  easily reversable
procedures so the next guy isn't cussin at me. (It could be me) I.E. Epoxy
is not required for pin block installation unless you've got a bad fit
oooopps.  Hide glue or tightbond works well there and cold hide my usual
glue of choice.

     Heritically and humbly submitted
     Dale Erwin