removing bridge pins that have been EPOXIED!!!!!

[Jon Page]

Here's a thought:
Paint the raw (installed) bridge cap with water thin epoxy or CA glue to 
reinforce the wood fibres,
let cure, then drill the pin holes.

This way the surface is reinforced and the pin is pressure fitted into an 
untreated hole.

Regards,

Jon Page


At 06:48 AM 03/15/2001 -0800, you wrote:
>    Regards To List
>
>        For all you epoxing whirlwinds out there who just can't wait to glue
>all those bridge pins back in place let me issue a word of caution.  I hope
>when all those bridges need to have the caps replaced that you all are the
>ones that have the unfortunate displeasure of removing them.
>
>   Although the tonal results are improved by epoxy repair may I humbly
>suggest that what the bridge really neededis new wood.    Not only that but
>in most cases it's only the very top of the  pinhole that's the problem  and
>if epoxy is used  (I) try to focus the application at the point. No doubt
>many of you have used the C. A. glues for this as I have and when I do am
>still trying to keep it at the top although this is difficult.
>
>  I realize that new wood is not always feasible and the quality of many
>pianos  will never warrant a new board or bridge so epoxy away.  I have done
>it  myself many times.  But for Steinways Masons etc that is where new wood
>would be warranted above the rest.
>
>     My shop has recently contracted a bellyjob on an Swy O that has the pins
>all but permanently installed in with epoxy.  Usually if the bridges are
>getting caps the pins are loose and the wood degraded and the pins easily
>removed.  Not so if the pins are epoxied in and  it can be next to
>impossible to remove.
>  On this O I almost considered cutting off the top half of the bridge below
>the pins and  because the pins were SSSSOOOOOOOO DERN TIGHT. yes I'm
>shouting.  Was greatly incensed with the makers of epoxy at that moment.
>Instead of the usual you know hr. or hr. and a half to remove these, it took
>four torturous hours of heating the pins/bridge to the point of blackening
>the bridge top to get them out. We were using the offset nosed vise grips
>and the appropriately placed pry blocks which saved my  hands from a
>permanent case of carpo tunnel and minmized the bruises and swelling.
>  Fortunately there is enough left of the bridge caps to get a pattern
>although I do have others fortunately.  I'm billing the tech an extra $200
>for the trouble and in the future will make it a point to ask if the pins
>have been permanately installed. If the answer is yes I think I'll just
>offer them a $2oo.oo discount and let them do the removal and I'm betin
>there will be some twice thinking bout epoxy repairin after that.
>
>    My last heritical note is that I loathe having to use epoxy it's such
>nasty messy stuff. That being said I'm aware that it has many uses but for
>me it's a last resort.  My goal in the shop is to use  easily reversable
>procedures so the next guy isn't cussin at me. (It could be me) I.E. Epoxy
>is not required for pin block installation unless you've got a bad fit
>oooopps.  Hide glue or tightbond works well there and cold hide my usual
>glue of choice.
>
>      Heritically and humbly submitted
>      Dale Erwin

Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage@mediaone.net
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