Hi David,
The Abel shank's are tapered all the way down to help to
compensate for the mass difference between Hornbeam and Maple. This helps
to negate touch weight issues. I have switched to Abel where possible for
this reason, and also no graphite in the bushing cloth. With our two wide
seasonal humidity swings, the friction is a little more consistent.
Graphite is very hydroscopic, and absorbs water during the high humidity
cycles.
Results may be different in different regions.
I have found the Abel shank's very accurate and reliable.
Regards Roger
At 11:31 PM 3/21/01 +0000, you wrote:
>List:
>
>What's the recent thinking on tapered vs non-tapered shanks. I frequently
>use Renner's shanks which are tapered in the upper range. But sometimes I
>will use Abel shanks for various reasons which are tapered through the set.
>I recall reading an article some years ago which addressed this issue. It
>suggested that the best approach is to have the heaviest hammers supported
>by the thickest shank to minimize deflection. Thus as the hammers get
>lighter the shank can/should be thinner and lighter. Sounds logical. Yet,
>no one makes a set quite like this. Renner's only vary in the upper end of
>the piano. Abel's do not vary at all. Appreciate any feedback .
>
>David Love
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