Hi David, The Abel shank's are tapered all the way down to help to compensate for the mass difference between Hornbeam and Maple. This helps to negate touch weight issues. I have switched to Abel where possible for this reason, and also no graphite in the bushing cloth. With our two wide seasonal humidity swings, the friction is a little more consistent. Graphite is very hydroscopic, and absorbs water during the high humidity cycles. Results may be different in different regions. I have found the Abel shank's very accurate and reliable. Regards Roger At 11:31 PM 3/21/01 +0000, you wrote: >List: > >What's the recent thinking on tapered vs non-tapered shanks. I frequently >use Renner's shanks which are tapered in the upper range. But sometimes I >will use Abel shanks for various reasons which are tapered through the set. >I recall reading an article some years ago which addressed this issue. It >suggested that the best approach is to have the heaviest hammers supported >by the thickest shank to minimize deflection. Thus as the hammers get >lighter the shank can/should be thinner and lighter. Sounds logical. Yet, >no one makes a set quite like this. Renner's only vary in the upper end of >the piano. Abel's do not vary at all. Appreciate any feedback . > >David Love >_________________________________________________________________ >Get your FREE download of MSN Explorer at http://explorer.msn.com >
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