Black Ebonies

[Joseph Garrett]

Terry,
I wouldn't use that formula on a set of keys with Ivory. The dye, lacquer
and to some degree, the oil comes off, hence those dreaded black lines at
the head/tail joint. Just my personal experience. :-)
Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 4:58 AM
Subject: Re: Black Ebonies


> There are easier-to-use products out there. Black shoe dye for staining
the
> ebony black, and then either spray with lacquer to finish or use an
> hand-applied oil finish like I do.
>
> Terry Farrell
> Piano Tuning & Service
> Tampa, Florida
> mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kjell Sverre Fardal" <ksfardal@online.no>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 08, 2001 4:05 AM
> Subject: SV: Black Ebonies
>
>
>
>
> -----Opprinnelig melding-----
> Fra: Kjell Sverre Fardal [mailto:ksfardal@online.no]
>
>
> Joe,
>
> I made a little test on a piece of pinewood today, it`s easier to see the
> colors than on ebony. Just give me a replay if you want me to e-mail you a
> picture (too many Kb for the list...)
>
> As Linda and Richard says, be avare of ev. dangers with this stuff...
> Anilinechloride and Coppersulfa are known as components used for coloring
> clothes (not wool) for generations. It will not be bleached by sunlight. I
> suppose that the workers, dealing with huge baths with this (back in the
old
> days), may got some problems. For a set of ebony keys, you will only use a
> few millilitres... But, be careful! I always do this in a ventilated room
> (normally used for spray-laquering), avoiding the stuff to reach my skin.
> Sorry, I can`t tell any more spesific about ev. dangers (but I wouldn`t
> exaggerate the dangers of a few millilitres handled with sensibility...).
>
>
> Kjell
>
> -----Opprinnelig melding-----
> Fra: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]På vegne av
> Joseph Garrett
> Sendt: 7. mai 2001 21:31
> Til: pianotech@ptg.org
> Emne: Re: Black Ebonies
>
>
> Kjell,
> Very interesting. Have not heard of this one, before. I'm definately going
> to try it. It looks like there are some pretty nasty chemicals in it,
> however, so I'm going to procede cautiously. I'll know if the
"translation"
> is ok, when I give the formula to the pharmacist. :-) Thanks for the info
> Regards,
> Joe Garrett, R.P.T. (Oregon)
> p.s.
> I did print it out, so I'll have something to refer to.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Kjell Sverre Fardal" <ksfardal@online.no>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, May 07, 2001 12:10 AM
> Subject: Black Ebonies
>
>
> > List!
> >
> > After some interesting (the informations given by Bill Bremmer were of
> great
> > interest to me...!), and some humourous responds about yellow ivory, I
> would
> > like to ask you what you do with the black (ebony) keys!
> >
> > In my workshop (est.1930) we have done this for years in the following
> way:
> >
> > 1. Clean the ebony (soap / water)
> >
> > 2. Sand them to a smooth surface (400 - paper / ev. 240 first)
> >
> > 3. Apply liquid A) (recipe given below...), and let dry (30 - 60
> >    min.)
> >
> > 4. Apply liquid B) (recipe given below...), and let dry (30 - 60
> >    min.)
> >
> > 5. Use steelwool (very fine!) and vaseline-oil to get a smooth surface.
> >
> > 6. Wipe off oil with a dry cloth.
> >
> > If it`s real ebony (or other woods with equivalent qualities), they
should
> > now have a nice black satin surface (also with a good "touch-feeling"
for
> > the pianist...).
> >
> >
> > Liquid A):  100 gr. Anilinechloride
> >                 900 gr. Water ("aqua purificata")
> >
> > Liquid B):    50 gr. Coppersulfa
> >                 100 gr. Potassium Dichromat
> >
> >                            to be resolved (decomposed?) in
> >
> >                 700 gr. Water ("aqua purificata"),
> >
> >                            then added
> >
> >                 150 gr. Hydrochloric acid 2 M
> >
> > I hope my translations from Norwegian are correct...! (I just give the
> > recipe to our local pharmacist, and he makes 1 litre of each...)
> >
> > You can ev. do the following test on a piece of wood (spruce f.i.):
> >
> > Apply A):  you get a sort of yellow color.
> > Apply B):         "          "         "        "
> > Applyt A) + B) on the same spot: a nice, deep black color will arise!
> >
> > Do you use any methods like this in the US, or is it just a Eureopean
> > variant?
> >
> > Just beeing curious...
> >
> > Kjell Sverre
> >
> >
> > Kjell Sverre Fardal, NPTF / Europiano
> > ksfardal@online.no
> > Kristiansand / Norway
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>