Is Bigger Better?

[Delwin D Fandrich]

----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: May 21, 2001 5:48 PM
Subject: Re: Is Bigger Better?


> > What kind of budget is available for this project?
>
> $15,000 to $20,000
>
> > What kind of music will be played predominantly?
>
> Classical.
>
> What other "lesser" or less costly salvage pianos do you recommend? Knabe?
> Baldwin R/L? Do you have a nice list of salvage pianos that are great for
> rebuilding into excellent pianos (all bellywork would of course,
incorporate
> your design change suggestions)?
> -------------------------------------------------------

Almost anything will do. There are very few old pianos that can't be made
into fairly decent musical instruments. Many old U.S. (and Canadian) grands
were built to materials and workmanship standards that should make S&S
blush. Many, also, were given an overall design that was clearly superior to
the comparable S&S models. The list would be long, indeed, if I were to
attempt to list them all. And that list would include more than a few that
are regularly put down by many technicians and rebuilders. I'm kind of in
the middle of an old Decker 5' 9" (175 cm) grand right now that is one of
the best overall designs I've seen yet out of the early 1900s. A while back
we finished up an Emerson grand of about the same size that ended up being
purchased instead of the new (mid- and high-end U.S. and Japanese) pianos
being considered. And the decision had nothing to do with saving money.
Several of the instruments being considered could have purchased for
considerably less than our Emerson. I currently have an old 6' (183 cm)
rosewood Geo. Steck (now more-or-less for sale) which, with it's re-designed
soundboard and scaling, has an awsome bass. Good treble also, in spite of
having agraffes through C-88. And old Everett of about 6' (183 cm) or so
with a three-piece rim comes to mind as an outstanding piano. (An oak rim
done up in the so-called 'Craftsman' style. Unique and quite attractive when
finished.

We've done everything from Baldwins to Yamahas. (We don't recommend the
latter because of the material used in the rim. It's a bit light and
additional rim bracing hasn't really helped all that much. I'm still working
on a few ideas for these...)

I look for a generally acceptable design, or one that we can at least work
with. Once in a while we come across something that don't think I can really
work with, but not often.

Pick a size based on the clients needs and budget. Be sure the rim is made
of some hardwood such as maple, oak, etc. Some shapes are easier to work
with, the more squared-off tail of the S&S L is easier to work with and more
responsive than the more rounded tail of the M -- no, it's not because
they're bigger. We've had good luck with the Baldwin R which is somewhere in
between (shape-wise). You asked about the Baldwin L; it's a potentially
great piano!. It's limitation -- if you want to call it that; I don't -- is
that it won't be particularly loud. Loud enough, to be sure, but it won't
produce quite as much overall power as some other pianos of similar size.
But, with just a bit of redesign (OK, a lot of redesign) and a good
soundboard, a new Renner action and some Isaacs or Ronsen hammers and it
will be a truly lovely piano. Great warmth and dynamics. One of the nicest
personal (or chamber) pianos around. But it will never have the 'power' of a
Yamaha.

To continue, look the plate over for any design weaknesses. Some old German
pianos were afflicted with castings that crack a lot. Some for design
reasons and others simply had poor castings. Check them carefully. Some U.S.
pianos have a pretty weak spot between the bass/tenor break (no pun
intended). Starr comes to mind. Some pianos have virtually no rim bracing --
the Emerson had only one originally; we added three more. Others have them
in the wrong places -- most S&S style pianos come to mind -- for the best
acoustics. Look for overall quality of construction. Is the rim reasonably
well fit to the rim. Does the plate work look crude? Are the holes drilled
for the rim bolts sloppy? Did they have to be reamed out to get the original
bolts to fit? Can you tell? Are the hitches neatly installed and adequately
aligned with the bridge pins? Are the hammershanks square to the action
rails? Most are, but there is the odd exception such as a few of the old
Chickerings. They can be done, but it will add to the cost. Considerably.
Don't worry about the condition of the damper system -- it will be replaced
anyway. Don't worry about the action -- it will be replaced anyway. Don't
worry about the trap mechanism -- it can be replaced anyway. Don't worry
about the condition of the soundboard -- it will be replaced anyway. Worry
about the keys -- they are not normally replaced and it will add
considerably to the cost if they need to be replaced. Cabinet condition is
up to the client. We don't care. The list can go on but you probably get the
idea.

Above all, don't shy away from a potentially good instrument just because it
doesn't have a 'famous' name.

Regards,

Del