Is Bigger Better?

[Farrell]

"Many old U.S. (and Canadian) grands
were built to materials and workmanship standards that should make S&S
blush. Many, also, were given an overall design that was clearly superior to
the comparable S&S models. "

Forgive me for being redundant, but I have a hard time making myself believe
that an "inferior" piano can be made to be "better" than a "superior" piano.
If I understand your post, you are saying that if I pick out a
well-designed/built old piano - like the Baldwin L or the Everett you
mentioned (I know of an old junker 6 footer locally) or I suppose an A.B.
Chase, Henry F. Miller, Chickering, etc. - I can make such a piano (with all
the complete redesigning, etc.) into a piano that will be at least as
pleasing as your average new S&S or M&H? I'm not trying to pin you down for
no reason - I want to be sure that it is not really worth seeking out the
salvage S&S or M&H that of course you may have to pay $5,000 to $7,000 for.

"Are the hammer shanks square to the action rails? Most are, but there is
the odd exception such as a few of the old Chickerings. "

Could you elaborate on this just a tad? I'm not sure exactly what you mean.
I have seen many actions where the hammer shanks and/or the whippens are not
square to the rails. Look down at the top action and you see that the shanks
and whippens are at horribly divergent angles. Is that what you are talking
about? I assume this comes from a mismatch of plate
design/casting/positioning and keyframe design/placement.

And what about the effect of key length on the desirability of the piano?

----- Original Message -----
From: "Delwin D Fandrich" <pianobuilders@olynet.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2001 11:36 PM
Subject: Re: Is Bigger Better?


>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: May 21, 2001 5:48 PM
> Subject: Re: Is Bigger Better?
>
>
> > > What kind of budget is available for this project?
> >
> > $15,000 to $20,000
> >
> > > What kind of music will be played predominantly?
> >
> > Classical.
> >
> > What other "lesser" or less costly salvage pianos do you recommend?
Knabe?
> > Baldwin R/L? Do you have a nice list of salvage pianos that are great
for
> > rebuilding into excellent pianos (all bellywork would of course,
> incorporate
> > your design change suggestions)?
> > -------------------------------------------------------
>
> Almost anything will do. There are very few old pianos that can't be made
> into fairly decent musical instruments. Many old U.S. (and Canadian)
grands
> were built to materials and workmanship standards that should make S&S
> blush. Many, also, were given an overall design that was clearly superior
to
> the comparable S&S models. The list would be long, indeed, if I were to
> attempt to list them all. And that list would include more than a few that
> are regularly put down by many technicians and rebuilders. I'm kind of in
> the middle of an old Decker 5' 9" (175 cm) grand right now that is one of
> the best overall designs I've seen yet out of the early 1900s. A while
back
> we finished up an Emerson grand of about the same size that ended up being
> purchased instead of the new (mid- and high-end U.S. and Japanese) pianos
> being considered. And the decision had nothing to do with saving money.
> Several of the instruments being considered could have purchased for
> considerably less than our Emerson. I currently have an old 6' (183 cm)
> rosewood Geo. Steck (now more-or-less for sale) which, with it's
re-designed
> soundboard and scaling, has an awsome bass. Good treble also, in spite of
> having agraffes through C-88. And old Everett of about 6' (183 cm) or so
> with a three-piece rim comes to mind as an outstanding piano. (An oak rim
> done up in the so-called 'Craftsman' style. Unique and quite attractive
when
> finished.
>
> We've done everything from Baldwins to Yamahas. (We don't recommend the
> latter because of the material used in the rim. It's a bit light and
> additional rim bracing hasn't really helped all that much. I'm still
working
> on a few ideas for these...)
>
> I look for a generally acceptable design, or one that we can at least work
> with. Once in a while we come across something that don't think I can
really
> work with, but not often.
>
> Pick a size based on the clients needs and budget. Be sure the rim is made
> of some hardwood such as maple, oak, etc. Some shapes are easier to work
> with, the more squared-off tail of the S&S L is easier to work with and
more
> responsive than the more rounded tail of the M -- no, it's not because
> they're bigger. We've had good luck with the Baldwin R which is somewhere
in
> between (shape-wise). You asked about the Baldwin L; it's a potentially
> great piano!. It's limitation -- if you want to call it that; I don't --
is
> that it won't be particularly loud. Loud enough, to be sure, but it won't
> produce quite as much overall power as some other pianos of similar size.
> But, with just a bit of redesign (OK, a lot of redesign) and a good
> soundboard, a new Renner action and some Isaacs or Ronsen hammers and it
> will be a truly lovely piano. Great warmth and dynamics. One of the nicest
> personal (or chamber) pianos around. But it will never have the 'power' of
a
> Yamaha.
>
> To continue, look the plate over for any design weaknesses. Some old
German
> pianos were afflicted with castings that crack a lot. Some for design
> reasons and others simply had poor castings. Check them carefully. Some
U.S.
> pianos have a pretty weak spot between the bass/tenor break (no pun
> intended). Starr comes to mind. Some pianos have virtually no rim
bracing --
> the Emerson had only one originally; we added three more. Others have them
> in the wrong places -- most S&S style pianos come to mind -- for the best
> acoustics. Look for overall quality of construction. Is the rim reasonably
> well fit to the rim. Does the plate work look crude? Are the holes drilled
> for the rim bolts sloppy? Did they have to be reamed out to get the
original
> bolts to fit? Can you tell? Are the hitches neatly installed and
adequately
> aligned with the bridge pins? Are the hammershanks square to the action
> rails? Most are, but there is the odd exception such as a few of the old
> Chickerings. They can be done, but it will add to the cost. Considerably.
> Don't worry about the condition of the damper system -- it will be
replaced
> anyway. Don't worry about the action -- it will be replaced anyway. Don't
> worry about the trap mechanism -- it can be replaced anyway. Don't worry
> about the condition of the soundboard -- it will be replaced anyway. Worry
> about the keys -- they are not normally replaced and it will add
> considerably to the cost if they need to be replaced. Cabinet condition is
> up to the client. We don't care. The list can go on but you probably get
the
> idea.
>
> Above all, don't shy away from a potentially good instrument just because
it
> doesn't have a 'famous' name.
>
> Regards,
>
> Del
>
>