missing Steinway nose shim

[DALE ERWIN]

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F.Y,I, & mine

    Stwy Models S ,M, L, O, All have plate horns with the screw arrangeme=
nt. Models A , B ,C ,D all have wedges. Wedges or horn they do the same t=
hing which is transfer load to the under beam assembly.
  What I want to know is at what point you can keep the bloomin thing fro=
m flying out of there as its strung. My best success is to use a bit of p=
ressure from a pry bar and block to give it a good shove into position be=
fore the chipping and tuning is attempted. =20
 I've used the prior method before any strings go on but it seems the pou=
nding in of the pins makes them fall out routinely even if it's taped in =
position.
    Any body else?
 =20
----- Original Message -----
From: Delwin D Fandrich
Sent: Friday, November 23, 2001 8:58 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: missing Steinway nose shim
 =20

----- Original Message -----
From: "David Foster" <pno2nr@hotmail.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: November 23, 2001 2:03 PM
Subject: missing Steinway nose shim


....after
> replacing the pinblock, recapping the bridges and setting new bearing, =
I
> find there is a gap of about 3/16=E2=80=9D.  I am assuming that all the=
se pianos
> originally had shims and that I should make a replacement.

Most of them had shims, or wedges. I've encountered just one (I think a
Model M) that may not have had a wedge. With the plate in place there was=
 no
room for one. Other than than I've rebuilt two (I think) pianos that came=
 in
without wedges (one was a Steinway, the other was something else). The
Steinway plates are typically a bit on the light side which is just fine =
as
long as some stress from the string load is coupled down through the horn=
,
past the wedge and on to the rim braces. Otherwise I'd worry about the pl=
ate
breaking, not to mentions the overall instability of the thing. Go ahead,
make a wedge and stick it in there.


>
> Can anyone offer
> some suggestions about the best material to use to fashion one?  That i=
s,
> could I just take an old plate screw and grind down its shank to
appropriate
> dimensions, or is there a better way?

Visit your local hardware store and pick up a length of 3/8" x 3/8" squar=
e
steel rod. It's cheap and you'll have enough stock to make a couple of do=
zen
wedges.


>
> As a side note, I wonder about the stress this imbalance placed on the
> plate/rim/belly structure over the years.  Significant or inconsequenti=
al?

Who knows? What you do know is where the thing is today. That's where I'd
leave it.

Del

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