Planer and keytops

Jon Page jonpage2001@mediaone.net
Fri, 12 Oct 2001 12:05:31 -0400


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At 09:47 AM 10/12/2001 -0400, you wrote:
>>Has anyone used an electric planer for dealing with removing the top 
>>layer of keytops when replacing ivories with plastic?  Every reference 
>>I've found suggests using a router instead.  Just curious.
>>Todd McNamee, Portland, OR
>I also use the Wagner planer in the drill press.  I have very few problems 
>with chipping the edges.  Just be aware of the direction of the 
>rotation.  It's best to cut into the wood instead of away from it.
>Also, I don't think it is important to take away a lot of the surface of 
>the key top.  I remove the key top and then use the planer to clean off 
>old glue and get a clean, even, and square surface.
>One more thing, don't try to cut too much in one pass.  I find it works 
>better to make a couple of passes.
>chris

The surface of the key needs to be planed deeper because the plastic keytop 
is thicker than the ivory.
If you do not plane deeper, then the sharp keysticks are too high above the 
naturals resulting in drastically
acute angles which will affect the physics of the keystroke, aggrevating 
the difference between sharps
and naturals. Another glitch is not needed.

I use a 3/4" plunge router bit (Woodworker's Supply) in a drill press. The 
key is held in a drill press vise
with appropriate stops.

Regards,
Jon Page,   piano technician
Harwich Port, Cape Cod, Mass.
mailto:jonpage2001@mediaone.net
http://www.stanwoodpiano.com
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