keytops (Question)

[Farrell]

> Nowadays I wouldn't consider using moulded tops.  Either I recover the
keys
> myself in sheet stock or I send them to Kluge or a very good English organ
> keyboard firm, and have them beautifully done in polyester sheet.

Details Please!!! I have asked the question of other sources for keytops
something other than plain white plastic. Others have asked the same
question. I have not seen much in response. Could you please elaborate on
details of the keytop materials that you use? The different types, sources,
characteristics, thicknesses, etc. Thanks

Terry Farrell

----- Original Message -----
From: "John Delacour" <JD@Pianomaker.co.uk>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 12:37 PM
Subject: Re: keytops (Question)


> At 09:26 15/10/01 +0200, Richard Brekne wrote:
>
> >I hear a lot of folks talking about using routing or sawing techniques in
some
> >way for removal of old key tops / fronts in preperation for renewal.
> >
> >I would like to hear a bit about why you all do this instead of using
some
> >form of heating up the the old keytops so as to "peel" off the old top /
front
> >material.
>
> Me too, Richard.  I've been reading this thread in amazement and feeling
> thankful that the Atlantic Ocean is likely to prevent me ever having to
> deal with one of these doctored keyboards.
>
>  From what I gather, it's not a question of removing the old coverings but
> of removing a thickness of wood under the covering so that the fat
stick-on
> key covers will not be higher than the original ivory or whatever.
>
> My first reaction is, what is the point of going to all this work in order
> to fit nasty fat acrylic key-covers when you can have the keys recovered
by
> a specialist in thinner sheet material, either grained celluloid or the
> latest industry standard grained polyester?
>
> Secondly, what difference is it going to make on many repair jobs if the
> wood of the sharps is a millimetre or less above the level of the woods of
> the naturals ads a result of raising the sharps to the new level?  The
> answer is virtually none, and if it's necessary to plane a mm. off a grand
> fall to accomodate the fat key-tops, that's not the end of the world
> either.  If you're going to use these dreadful key-tops to start with, why
> balk at removing a tiny amount from the fall, which can easily be built up
> in the future if necessary.  Nonew of this would be necessary if the keys
> are properly recovered.
>
> Many years ago, when I could not trust the specialist firms to do a good
> job, I did sometimes use moulded sets of covers, and if it was a hight
> class job, I would remove the ebony sharps and raise these using a couple
> of thicknesses of walnut veneer to keep the wooden tops level.  To prise
> off 36 ebonies and raise them is very quickly done and there is no damage
> to the keyboard.
>
> Nowadays I wouldn't consider using moulded tops.  Either I recover the
keys
> myself in sheet stock or I send them to Kluge or a very good English organ
> keyboard firm, and have them beautifully done in polyester sheet.
>
> This routing and planing business is about the wildest thing I've read on
> this list in the past few weeks, and I've been reading some pretty wild
things!
>
> JD
>