keytops (Question)

[Carl Meyer]

Thanks for the endorsement, Terry.  You're not the first to discover the
sight plus sound method of key leveling.

I'm glad to hear your ears are calibrated for the difference between one and
three thousandth of an inch.

Carl Meyer  Assoc. PTG
Santa Clara, California
cmpiano@home.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 4:18 AM
Subject: Re: keytops (Question)


> I recently put a new keybed in a Knabe grand. It also had a termite eaten
> (weakened) and warped keyframe. When I went to level the keys I had quite
a
> bit of trouble. That was when I decided to purchase Carl Meyer's key
> leveling system. I tried that. It worked quite a bit better, but they were
> still not quite level - I could see by eye that some were still off. I was
> getting very frustrated and wondering if my keybed was screwed up.
>
> What it turned out to be - those few (actually quite a few) remaining
> hard-to-level keys - after taking the keys out and examining them
closely -
> it was the keytops that were far, far from level. They were wavy. High
here,
> low there, sloping over here on this one (I could get height variations of
> up to 0.025" on an individual keytop, depending on where I put the
leveling
> stick). I would level with my leveling bar over the keypin position, and
> look at the front edge of the keys to see how nice and level they were and
> they would be all over the place.
>
> I'm using Carl's key leveling system on an old Decker grand right now
> (equipped with a non-chewed or warped action frame) and let me tell you,
> those keys are level!
>
> Amazing what flat keytops can do for leveling them!  :-)
>
> Incidentally, Pianotek has the 0.001" center rail punchings now. I had
only
> used down to 0.003" before. Wow, that thin piece can really fine-tune your
> key leveling. And Carl, your stick works great, even down to this
accuracy -
> very reproducible. When a key is 0.001" low, you can push it up against
the
> stick, and you don't really even see it move, but you can hear it click
> against the metal stick - then you know a 0.001" punching will get you
where
> you want to be!
>
> Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Brian Trout" <grandrestorations@yahoo.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 8:39 AM
> Subject: Re: keytops (Question)
>
>
> > Hi Richard,
> >
> > Having been away from the process for a bit, my
> > memory may be fuzzy...but...
> >
> > I do remember, even with the application of heat
> > from an iron, there were more times than I'd have
> > liked when part of the wood came off with the
> > keytop.
> >
> > And, since many people are interested in keeping
> > the overall height of the key the same, (and also
> > length, with regard to the keyfront) before and
> > after recovery,  (sounds like there might be a
> > support group in there somewhere, huh?
> > <chuckle>...sorry..., I guess recovering is the
> > correct word), the whole process of removing the
> > old material can go right along with the process
> > of milling out that little bit of wood that needs
> > to come off in order to preserve the original
> > dimensions.
> >
> > As a practical matter, I've seen both extremes.
> > I've seen keys that it really didn't make much
> > difference that no one planed down the extra wood
> > to keep the dimensions.  And I've seen keys that
> > would have obviously fit into the piano much
> > better if they had been planed to fit as the
> > originals did.
> >
> > Thus, the idea...  make 'em the same size as they
> > were.  If they fit before, they'll fit after.
> >
> > My $0.02... if it's even worth that... ;-)
> >
> > Take care, Ric.
> >
> > Brian T.
> >
> >
> >
> > =====
> > Brian Trout
> > Grand Restorations
> > 3090 Gause Blvd., #202
> > Slidell, LA  70461
> > 985-649-2700
> > GrandRestorations@yahoo.com
> >
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