You can get the .001" punchings from Yamaha as well. Tom Servinsky,RPT ----- Original Message ----- From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Tuesday, October 16, 2001 7:18 AM Subject: Re: keytops (Question) > I recently put a new keybed in a Knabe grand. It also had a termite eaten > (weakened) and warped keyframe. When I went to level the keys I had quite a > bit of trouble. That was when I decided to purchase Carl Meyer's key > leveling system. I tried that. It worked quite a bit better, but they were > still not quite level - I could see by eye that some were still off. I was > getting very frustrated and wondering if my keybed was screwed up. > > What it turned out to be - those few (actually quite a few) remaining > hard-to-level keys - after taking the keys out and examining them closely - > it was the keytops that were far, far from level. They were wavy. High here, > low there, sloping over here on this one (I could get height variations of > up to 0.025" on an individual keytop, depending on where I put the leveling > stick). I would level with my leveling bar over the keypin position, and > look at the front edge of the keys to see how nice and level they were and > they would be all over the place. > > I'm using Carl's key leveling system on an old Decker grand right now > (equipped with a non-chewed or warped action frame) and let me tell you, > those keys are level! > > Amazing what flat keytops can do for leveling them! :-) > > Incidentally, Pianotek has the 0.001" center rail punchings now. I had only > used down to 0.003" before. Wow, that thin piece can really fine-tune your > key leveling. And Carl, your stick works great, even down to this accuracy - > very reproducible. When a key is 0.001" low, you can push it up against the > stick, and you don't really even see it move, but you can hear it click > against the metal stick - then you know a 0.001" punching will get you where > you want to be! > > Terry Farrell > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Brian Trout" <grandrestorations@yahoo.com> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Monday, October 15, 2001 8:39 AM > Subject: Re: keytops (Question) > > > > Hi Richard, > > > > Having been away from the process for a bit, my > > memory may be fuzzy...but... > > > > I do remember, even with the application of heat > > from an iron, there were more times than I'd have > > liked when part of the wood came off with the > > keytop. > > > > And, since many people are interested in keeping > > the overall height of the key the same, (and also > > length, with regard to the keyfront) before and > > after recovery, (sounds like there might be a > > support group in there somewhere, huh? > > <chuckle>...sorry..., I guess recovering is the > > correct word), the whole process of removing the > > old material can go right along with the process > > of milling out that little bit of wood that needs > > to come off in order to preserve the original > > dimensions. > > > > As a practical matter, I've seen both extremes. > > I've seen keys that it really didn't make much > > difference that no one planed down the extra wood > > to keep the dimensions. And I've seen keys that > > would have obviously fit into the piano much > > better if they had been planed to fit as the > > originals did. > > > > Thus, the idea... make 'em the same size as they > > were. If they fit before, they'll fit after. > > > > My $0.02... if it's even worth that... ;-) > > > > Take care, Ric. > > > > Brian T. > > > > > > > > ===== > > Brian Trout > > Grand Restorations > > 3090 Gause Blvd., #202 > > Slidell, LA 70461 > > 985-649-2700 > > GrandRestorations@yahoo.com > > > > __________________________________________________ > > Do You Yahoo!? > > Make a great connection at Yahoo! Personals. > > http://personals.yahoo.com >
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