Greetings, I'll admit, I'm old-fashioned. I love hot hide glue, I sand the bottom of tuning pin bushings so they are all even up top in the plate, rebushing a few hammershanks is reasonable if they are the only problems in a virgin 1912 Steinway, and I would never have gone machine if arthritis hadn't forced me to give up the handplay in aural tuning. I once drew the line at doping pinblocks, fully convinced it was only for those that didn't know how to repin...... well, I have changed. CA is a wonderful thing to put into a pinblock. I don't flood things with it, but find that for marginal pins, 6 or seven drops of the thin stuff makes a huge difference. Two things I have learned, or at least, convinced myself: The Gold Bond brand of CA doesn't have any fumes, and is described as non-toxic. I bet someone on the list knows where to get it,(my supply came from Frank Weston, but he seems to have been off-list now). The tech using CA needs to know what happens, what can be done later, etc. For this, you need an old pinblock. Experiment. Put CA on some of the old pins you have driven back in, soak a hole or two with one pin in it and then take that pin out and hammer in a larger one. Cut the wood away from a treated hole and learn how much CA goes how far. Put a little at the base of a pin three or four pins, then wait a day and add more CA to one , does the dispersion change? Get acquainted with your torque-wrench and/or take notes on what happens. Then, take that piece of pinblock and put it in the basement or attic, with the written results you got. Wait six months and retrieve it, measure what happened. Make conclusions, go out in the field and KNOW (sorta) what you are doing with that little bottle of miracles. What I now think is that the stuff works by increasing the surface area that the metal pin rubs against. "Swelling" of the wood may be involved, but the cellular pressure in wood with this sort of chemical intrusion is, imho, not enough to make the kinds of difference I see. Given that the CA is inelastic, I don't think the results would be as durable if increased pressure was the result of the CA. I dunno, I haven't my copy of Hoadley handy, and don't know if this topic was treated. I don't use CA for the disasterously loose pin, for me, that still calls for repinning. However, where there are marginal pins or previous doping with one of the old style fluids, the CA seems like magic. I have taken out a previously CA'd pin and hammered in the next oversize and it felt great. Going two sizes over caused a stiction problem, it wanted to jump around, some. CA sets up via exposure to moisture. The moisture creates a very dilute sulphuric acid in the unstable long chains of the CA. This minute acidity breaks the molecules that kept the liquid CA from solidifying, and it then sets quite quickly. I wonder if the kicker has any acidic component, for if so, I think it could be detrimental to the tuning pins and strings. Anybody know more about the chemistry of the kicker? REgards, Ed Foote RPT
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