At 8:47 AM -0500 10/28/01, Farrell wrote:
>"A picture is worth a thousand words."
>
>Any chance of you sending one directly to me? I know some folks get bogged
>down with pictures - I don't.
>
>Let me see if I have a correct understanding of your new approach: You
>take an appropriate length of hammer shank and hose-clamp it to the outside
>sliding/retractable sleeve of the nailer at the proper position such that as
>you are pounding the tuning pin in, the hammer shank will touch the plate
>BEFORE the tuning pin is driven in to its desired depth -
STOP right here! When the shank reaches the plate, the entire nailer
can go no closer. Although the nailer can go no closer, there may be
an additional small amount that the piston can still drive because if
the current pin height allows it to push the piston in AND past the
point of triggering. The piston will still drive for another
"coupletwotree" pops, until these additional pops drive the pin low
enough (remember the nailer height has been fixed during these last
few pops) that although it may still push the piston up into the
nailer, but that distance has dropped below the minimum necessary to
trigger another pop. As the French say, Walla!
>but you continue
>driving it in - now the hammer shank is pushing the sliding sleeve to a
>retracted position - and continue driving until the hammer shank pushes the
>sliding/retracting sleeve back far enough to the point where it holds back
>the driver piston from being activated because it is no longer exerting
>pressure down on the tuning pin top.
The sliding sleeve doesn't retract. The hose clamps tie it to the
shank, and the top end of the shank is butted up against the rim of
the plug (that was the point from which we were measuring the piston
minimum displacement to trigger). Not only does the top of the shank
butt up there but the top hose clamp does too. From one standpoint
the amount of the sliding sleeve extended beyond the plug is
unimportant, but you make it the maximum for the fullest amount
available for attaching the two hose clamps.
>(Wow, was that a mouthful or what?)
Chew carefully before swallowing.
>Assuming your hammer shank is the right length and was positioned correctly,
>your tuning pin is now exactly at the desired height - as are all of them.
+/- a coupletwotree 0.1mm.
>If I am right with the above, doesn't the hammer shank end mark the plate?
Why would it? How much speed or force it there behind it when it
arrives at the plate? It's not as if the shank were clamped to the
piston (or in the case of our now-retired manual system, the body of
the tuning pin punch. The gage is attached to the plug (and thus the
body of the nailer). It's only moving as fast as the nailer (slow)
and the only force behind it is the gravitational attraction the the
nailer's weight.
Che Bella!
>Or does the sleeve retract so very easily that it doesn't mark the plate?
The sleeve is fixed by the hose clamps. It doesn't retract. (It
doesn't have to.)
>I hope I have it right! I would love a picture
>if you have one. Thanks
A thousand words is worth a picture. Let me know if you still need
one, but it'll be anticlimactic. As would be a 30 sec. QuicktTime
Video.
Bill Ballard RPT
NH Chapter, P.T.G.
"How could I not question Our Creator for putting this human
obscenity into the presence of such a divine creature"
...........John Goodman, the torn police dick in "One Night at McCool's"
+++++++++++++++++++++
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