Hide Glue

[David Ilvedson]

Joe,

Have you actually done a test for the 72 hour strength limit?  I use urea
to slow the set up time as per Bill Spurlock's advice.  

David I.

*********** REPLY SEPARATOR  ***********

On 10/30/01 at 8:44 AM Joseph Garrett wrote:

>Tom,
>If hide glue "Smells", throw it out. As for a video, showing how to use
>hide
>glue, forget it. It's not that difficult! Below is "Directions for Mixing
>Hide Glue", that has been posted in my shop, for my various helpers:
>1. Add 1 part Glue to 1 1/2 parts water. (Distilled water is preferable.)
>2. Let soak for at least 1/2 hour. (1 hour is preferable).
>3. Dissolve by placing in a double jacketed glue pot or boiler, stirring
>occasionally. (hint: discard the initial "skin")
>4. Maintain heat under 140 degrees Fahrenheit, preferably 130 degrees
>Fahrenheit. Do not exceed 150 degrees Fahrneheit.
>5. Discard glue after 72 hours.
>A few tips:
>1. The glue can be reheated many times, but will lose most of it's
strength
>after the 72 hour period.
>2. If it has a rancid odor, this means that bacteria has taken effect and
>is
>further destroying the strength of the glue.
>3. If mold is present, toss it!
>4. Glue consistancy is varialble, depending on what materials are being
>bonded. ie felt gluing is best done with a FAIRLY THICK glue, whereas
>bonding wood to wood, as in hammers to shanks, can be thinner. The test I
>use is to stir with a hammershank; lift and count the drops. If the glue
>drips faster than 1 drop per second, it is probably too thin. If the glue
>drips at more than 1 drop per 2 seconds, it is too thick.
>Hope this helps and happy gluing to all.
>Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)
>P.S.
>To all: please be aware that CVA has a life and is a bear to remove.
Please
>quit using it! Use of CVA, IMHO, is a sign that you are in, way too big a
>hurry or you are not thinking LONGIVETY OR CRAFTSMANSHIP!