List,
My last post on Hide Glue instructions was for the high grade glues, such as
3XChrome or "Flake" glues. The soaking times for the regular glues you get
from your suppliers, requires at least 12 hours soaking time. This includes
the "Pearl" & "Sheet" glues. And also includes my "Jose's Hide" glue.
A few tips:
I use copper glue pots, obtained years ago from APSCO & Renner. They are
no longer available, as far as I know. Their size is what makes these pots
ideal. One is a 1/2 cup size and the other is a 1 cup size.
I also use small artist's brushes, (water color type), that are modified
as follows: I cut off the handle to about 4" long; turn down the handle to
accept a "ferrule" about 1/2" long. Then I drill a small hole into the end
of the handle and insert a screw eye, (a little smaller than a cup hook),
and open the "eye" to make a hook. I have installed "horizontals" to my
pots, that allow me to hang the brush on. These are adjustable so that the
bristles only are immersed.
For the "stir stick", I like to use olde cedar hammer shanks, (removed
from olde uprights). On the stir end I do a slow taper to about 3/16", this
allows the stir stick to "swab" the hole of the hammer and have some
clearance. The "grabber" end, I run it into a pencil sharpener and then fit
an electrical nut. This allows me to grab it quickly.
Finally, I use a spray bottle, (filled with DISTILLED water), to mist
the glue periodically to keep the scum off and keep the glue at the proper
consistency.
Yes, you can use Urea, but I don't recommend it. It weakens the glue
somewhat, and I don't want "call-backs" for loose hammer heads. (Don't even
ask!) If you need to slow the set time, you either need to work faster or
heat the surfaces that are being glued, such as big panels/veneer, etc. (In
the summer, I have to turn the temp control up on my glue pots, due to the
air conditioning. Go figger.)
Hope some of this helps.
Regards,
Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon)
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