keyslip

[Dave Nereson]

<You are using the front rail punchings in the wrong place. Instead of
between the rail and the action, cut them in half, and put them over the
screw
holes, between the rail and the keybed, but on the action side of the hole.
When
you tighten the screw, the top of the rail will move away from the keys.
Willem>

Oh wow!  I've never heard nor thought of this!  Great tip!  Should be in the
Journal
.
 <Or glue a paper match to the inside of the hole in the keyslip.  THis can
be
peeled down if it is excessive and does work very nicely.
On Kawais you can bend the keyslip metal brace by stepping on it while one
end
is on the floor.
Steinways you can bend the metal pin outward until it works.
I don't like using keyframe spacers but I have seen it done.
THen, you can relocate holes.   Aaarrrrggg.
Newton>

And on Yamahas, the key blocks have an "overbite" that grabs little blocks
on the keyslip that have an "underbite".  If the keyblocks pull the keyslip
in too far when the screws are tightened, remove the little blocks from the
keyslip, shim them out with cardboard punchings, and re-install.  Some
Korean pianos and others have a similar arrangement.
--Dave Nereson, RPT, Denver