Jon Page wrote.....
Snip....
> it is necessary to attenuate the leading edge.
>This is accomplished by the method described be Bill Spurlock:
(paraphrasing:)
>Peel back the covering a bit and pull a few strands out 1/2" or so. Pull
>the entire group of strands out another 2". While securing this end of the
covering
>and strands, slide you hand along the covering to allow the other end to
extend beyond
>the strands.
>This will produce a narrow leader to thread through the flange. The reason
>to pull a few strands through first is to allow a gradient to the cord
substrate.
>Pull the covering tightly and apply CA or hot glue to solidify the narrowed
>covering. (spring clamps at each end and hang until dry). Trim accordingly.
I learned another method for this procedure, after spending lots of time as
an apprentice triming and glueing and not enjoying it.
I remove the core as Jon and others have mentioned then pull the woven
covering straight and at about half the thinned cord distance from the end I
wind a tight eye with fairly thin copper wire. Twist between your fingers
till you have about 25mm (an inch to you fellas) length of twist and finish
off to tighten around cord with pliers. Trim off waste copper and fold the
waste length of cord back over, thus.....
___________
____________________________)xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
The lines represent the cord, the xxxxxx's represent the copper twisted
wire. If I had a digital camera I'd attach a pic.
It works well, occassionally can be tight to pull through on some flanges
but works for damper springs and the Schwander style hammer return
(butt)springs we almost exclusively see in these parts.
Hope this makes sense,
Regards,
Graeme Harvey
New Plymouth
New Zealand
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