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Well I'm not sure what Ron O. does exactly, but I always burnish the top =
with the shaft of large screwdriver or some such piece of metal. Hold =
the handle and the blade and massage the top of the bridge to compress =
the fibers and increase the density a bit. These days I'm using a water =
thin epoxy to coat the top of the bridge whether I'm recapping or =
repinning and renotching. =20
David Love
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Erwinspiano@AOL.COM=20
To: pianotech@ptg.org=20
Sent: April 06, 2002 12:02 PM
Subject: Re: Tallow!
In a message dated 4/6/2002 9:39:21 AM Pacific Standard Time, =
davidlovepianos@earthlink.net writes:
Subj:Re: Tallow!=20
Date:4/6/2002 9:39:21 AM Pacific Standard Time
From:davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
Reply-to:pianotech@ptg.org
To:pianotech@ptg.org
Sent from the Internet=20
David
I like this idea I just couldn't recall the details. Rubs =
it with what or do you mean rubs it out after the finish is on. Bob Hof =
wrote in ptj that likes to saturate his new bridge tops with shellac =
first which hardens and supports wood fibers. Any one who has used thin =
epoxy or shellac on maple knows how porous it actually is
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Dale>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Dale:
Check out Ron Overs' bridge top method. I think he rubs it down to =
harden it and just puts a clear finish on the top and lets it go at =
that. You could also put a thin coat of water thin epoxy to seal and =
harden it.
David Love
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