>Hi Phil... you can also try going in with one needle barely >off the crown and at a slight angle away from parallel to >the the core. You can more or less "pry out" a bit on the >hammer felt from the inside this way. As with anything, too >much will be.... to much. :) This sounds like what I do as a mattere of course. If you imagine a triangle with its apex at the strike point, with rather steep sides, like a steeple---this is an area you may not want to be sticking deep needles in. However, in my experience, putting an 11mm needle ALL the way in along the sides of the triangle, starting almost at the strike point and at a 15 or 20 degree angle away from the center of the hammer----3 or 4 stiches, front and back---makes a beautiful and "permanent" difference in tone. ONE CAVEAT: this works a whole hell of a lot better if the hammers have been "pre-voiced," that is, softened up lower on the shoulders. Rick Baldassin's got a pretty good technique which he shares in a little brochure called "Voicing the Renner Hammer..." I've found most quality hammers can benefit from these pre-voicing techniques. > >That being said, of late I have begun to develop a bit of >sceptical view to "fast results" needling techniques. Or >perhaps Andres visit here has just got me hooked on trying >to really for real master traditional needling techniques. Hey: we can all be heroes by needling in the string cuts......but the hero worship only lasts about an hour and a half of serious playing.....then it's back to broken glass and that disgusting nasally "twang" that we all know and loathe........Good luck........David Andersen
This PTG archive page provided courtesy of Moy Piano Service, LLC