Hi Tom, Using no kicker is also my choice. I feel that the glue is stronger as it never shows the white hue from the use of the activator. With the natural moisture in the wood the glue will form a surface tension in less than a minute that will keep the glue from moving on the bridge. Not so on the plate where you are doing tuning pins. That sometimes needs to set up over night or be wicked up with paper strips. Joe Goss imatunr@srvinet.com www.mothergoosetools.com ----- Original Message ----- From: <Tvak@AOL.COM> To: <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Wednesday, August 14, 2002 7:37 PM Subject: CA+kicker on bridge pins > > In a message dated 8/8/02 9:05:30 AM, Wimblees@AOL.COM writes: > > << Squirt a couple of drops of CA glue in the > hole, spray some kicker on the pin, and drive the pin in the hole. >> > > I have never used kicker on bridge repairs with CA. I say this not to > disagree, but to question my not using it in the past. Since the kicker only > accelerates the drying of the glue, what's the hurry? Why not just let the > glue dry on its own? I ask these quesitons out of naivete having used CA > only on about a dozen bridges at this point. Still, just letting the glue > dribble into the hole and letting it dry by itself seems to do the trick. > (Pins are tight afterwards.) > > Do you also use kicker when applying CA to a pin block? (I haven't used it > in that application either, also with seemingly good results. Which doesn't > mean I wouldn't be happy to get better results with the kicker!) > > Just asking, > > Tom Sivak
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