Warped keyframe

[Jon Ralinovsky]

Roger,
Thanks for the strategies - I'll let you know how things turn out!

Respectfullly,
Jon


>Greeting Jon,
>                          I doubt it, for two reasons.   1.   The 
>rail is not very thick back there, so you can't make a significant 
>saw cut.  2.   The action brackets and frame has a lot of influence 
>on the position and shape of the rail.
>Remember these are very soft wood frames.
>
>   Several solutions.
>
>Before starting, remove stack and keys, install the frame to pin 
>point where the problem is happening.  ( Twisted action rails can be 
>the cause of the problem. )   I did not find that problem in 5 mins. 
>(Grin)
>If the frame is now flat. you have a problem with action stack 
>bowing the frame.
>
>1.  Shim the feet of the action brackets with veneer. To overcome the bowing.
>
>2.  Shim the frame in the dag areas and sand for a good fit and good 
>unacoda operation.  The dags will hold the frame down.
>
>3.  If the frame is badly bowed, shim the underside of the crown 
>with veneer and sand to fit.
>
>4.  Minor knocking just sand the back frame.
>
>
>With Yamaha's I have bedded the back frame by changing the order of 
>bracket tightening.  If it is knocking in the centre. Tighten the 
>outer brackets first, then the middle ones.  If it knock's on the 
>outer area then tighten the centre brackets first.
>
>Fun and games.
>regards Roger
>
>
>

Jon Ralinovsky
Piano Technician
Department of Music
Miami University
513/529-6548