Hello, The Emil Fries School of Piano Tuning and Technology in Vancouver, Washington U. S. A. Has some grand keyfraims for sale. These are serplus keyfraims donated to the school by the Kimball Piano company when they went out of the piano business. The keyfraims measure 52 and 1/4 inches long and 19 and 1/4 inches wide including full length of natural keys. If you are interested please send e-mail to me privately don@pianotuningschool.org or dsmitch@pacifier.com ----- Original Message ----- From: pianotech-digest <owner-pianotech-digest@ptg.org> To: <pianotech-digest@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 3:42 PM Subject: pianotech-digest V2002 #298 > > pianotech-digest Monday, February 18 2002 Volume 2002 : Number 298 > > > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:38:06 EST > From: Erwinspiano@AOL.COM > Subject: Re: Rim Bevel > > - --part1_ac.22d088c9.29a2ce3e_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > In a message dated 2/17/2002 7:19:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, > mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes: > > > > Subj:Rim Bevel > > Date:2/17/2002 7:19:04 PM Pacific Standard Time > > From:<A HREF="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A> > > Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > > To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > > Sent from the Internet > > > > > > Terry you wrote > > For all you soundboard builders that use tighter arcs than a 60-foot > > radius: I think the 60-foot radius arc is common on most old pianos (at > > least the crown was about that when the board was new), and I suppose many > > newer ones. > > > >>>>>>>>Just when you thought it was safe to think something.......A 60 ft. > crown is a starting point for many. I've measured some spots in my boards > when glued in and yet unstrung that measured any where from 55 to 70 ft. in > the bottom and in the treble 50 to 25 ft. arcs. I really doubt any new > Steinway ever had even one spot that had a sixty ft. crown and I don't think > they even had a specification. If they had one I suspect the radius was > flatter like 75 to 90 ft. They and other makers dragged a dozen nicely dried > boards out of the hot box on a soggy summer morning and by the time the > ribbed the last one in the afternoon the e.m.c.s had changed dramitically. > What was that you say specifications? E. m.C. squared = a flat board. Da kno. > > And I assume that the edges of a 60-foot radius board will have an > angle of about > > 1-1/2 to two degrees at its edges - about the same as the bevel on the inner > > rim. Now, when you go to 40 or 30-foot radii - or even tighter - surely the > > edge of the board forms a significantly steeper angle from the horizontal > > than that of a 60-foot radius board. > > > > My understanding is that the bevel of the inner rim is very important to > > the soundboard maintaining its crown. > > >>>>>>>>I have installed two of my boards onto flat rims and those boards (A > 6 ft. Weber and a Hardman 5 ft. 10 " and both soft rim pianos) ended up with > less crown than any other in my practice. I was a little concened. That was a > long time ago and honestly other factors could have entered in. Inexperience? > However I see no reason to think that gluing a crowned board to flat surface > is a design practice I want to endorse. It would seem that a flat rim > introduces another unneeded bending strain. I feel more comfortable gluing > the edge of a crowned board to something that's going in the same direction. > That being said a beveled rim doesn't seem to inhibit more steeply crowned > ribs from retaining their shape. > I agree with Del that once the board is strung it has flattened > greatly. Hey you know in that case the board was probably designed to be > jjjjjjjjjust the right hieght when under string load.to match the rim > bevel.!!! Who knows. > > > > > So, the question is do you put a steeper angle on the rim bevel, do you > > angle off the outer 3/4 inches (however wide the inner rim is) of the board > > to match the existing rim bevel, or do you just clamp the darn thing > > together and all seems to work just fine. > > .........>>>>>>>> What you said. works > Just Fuel for cannon fodder--Dale Erwin > San Diego was great! > > > > > > > > > > - --part1_ac.22d088c9.29a2ce3e_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0">In a message dated 2/17/2002 7:19:04 PM Pacific Standard Time, mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com writes:<BR> > <BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:<B>Rim Bevel </B><BR> > Date:2/17/2002 7:19:04 PM Pacific Standard Time<BR> > From:<A HREF="mailto:mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com">mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com</A><BR> > Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR> > To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR> > <I>Sent from the Internet </I><BR> > <BR> > <BR> > Terry you wrote<BR> > For all you soundboard builders that use tighter arcs than a 60-foot radius: I think the 60-foot radius arc is common on most old pianos (at least the crown was about that when the board was new), and I suppose many newer ones.<BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > >>>>>>>>Just when you thought it was safe to think something.......A 60 ft. crown is a starting point for many. I've measured some spots in my boards when glued in and yet unstrung that measured any where from 55 to 70 ft. in the bottom and in the treble 50 to 25 ft. arcs. I really doubt any new Steinway ever had even one spot that had a sixty ft. crown and I don't think they even had a specification. If they had one I suspect the radius was flatter like 75 to 90 ft. They and other makers dragged a dozen nicely dried boards out of the hot box on a soggy summer morning and by the time the ribbed the last one in the afternoon the e.m.c.s had changed dramitically. What was that you say specifications? E. m.C. squared = a flat board. Da kno.<BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"> <BR> > And I assume that the edges of a 60-foot radius board will have an angle of about </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">1-1/2 to two degrees at its edges - about the same as the bevel on the inner rim. Now, when you go to 40 or 30-foot radii - or even tighter - surely the edge of the board forms a significantly steeper angle from the horizontal than that of a 60-foot radius board.<BR> > <BR> > My understanding is that the bevel of the inner rim is very important to the soundboard maintaining its crown. </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > <BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0">>>>>>>>>I have installed two of my boards onto flat rims and those boards (A 6 ft. Weber and a Hardman 5 ft. 10 " and both soft rim pianos) ended up with less crown than any other in my practice. I was a little concened. That was a long time ago and honestly other factors could have entered in. Inexperience? However I see no reason to think that gluing a crowned board to flat surface is a design practice I want to endorse. It would seem that a flat rim introduces another unneeded bending strain. I feel more comfortable gluing the edge of a crowned board to something that's going in the same direction. That being said a beveled rim doesn't seem to inhibit more steeply crowned ribs from retaining their shape.<BR> > I agree with Del that once the board is strung it has flattened greatly. Hey you know in that case the board was probably designed to be jjjjjjjjjust the right hieght when under string load.to match the rim bevel.!!! Who knows.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR> > So, the question is do you put a steeper angle on the rim bevel, do you angle off the outer 3/4 inches (however wide the inner rim is) of the board to match the existing rim bevel, or do you just clamp the darn thing together and all seems to work just fine.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > <BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0">.........>>>>>>>> What you said. works<BR> > Just Fuel for cannon fodder--Dale Erwin<BR> > San Diego was great!</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"> <BR> > <BR> > </BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT></HTML> > - --part1_ac.22d088c9.29a2ce3e_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 13:43:11 -0800 > From: "Joseph Garrett" <joegarrett@earthlink.net> > Subject: pythagorean Meantone? > > I'm not sure, but the temperament listed, starts at A440 (0.0) and goes UP > from there. Not being to experienced in HTs, doesn't the temperament go DOWN > from A440? (That is if you are using A440 as the pitch criteria, rather than > C.) > Any thoughts on this? > Reagards, > Joe Garrett, RPT, (Oregon) > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:43:05 EST > From: Erwinspiano@AOL.COM > Subject: Re: Rich people (OT) > > - --part1_f4.16f70b6e.29a2cf69_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > In a message dated 2/14/2002 10:08:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, > PNHISTIC1@AOL.COM writes: > > > > Subj:Re: Rich people (OT) > > Date:2/14/2002 10:08:43 PM Pacific Standard Time > > From:<A HREF="mailto:PNHISTIC1@AOL.COM">PNHISTIC1@AOL.COM</A> > > Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > > To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A> > > Sent from the Internet > > > > Hi Dave > > God bless the financially affluent they choose to keep me busy in my > rebuilding business. I like your perspectives. WHo are you any way? > Best--Dale Erwin > > > > > > > Dave Writes > > Rich people are people first, and rich second: in short, not that much > > different than you and me. They could BE you and me had other choices been > > > > made in our lives. Different sets of problems, to be sure, but problems > > none > > the less. Few "have it made," depending on your definition of the phrase. > > > > They have worries, medical ailments, car payments, lifestyle maintenance > > costs(this is the gray area). They are certainly scrutinized more > > carefully > > and judged more harshly than those with less financial wherewithal. But > > they > > laugh, cry, sweat, bleed, sleep, and perform bodily functions like everyone > > > > else. Some of them even spend real money on pianos. Is it better for a > > family to own a brand new BB Mason and Hamlin and never to play > > it--effectively, taking it out of circulation--than to own an Andrew Kohler > > > > spinet and play the hell out of it? > > > > Dave Stahl > > > > > - --part1_f4.16f70b6e.29a2cf69_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0">In a message dated 2/14/2002 10:08:43 PM Pacific Standard Time, PNHISTIC1@AOL.COM writes:<BR> > <BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">Subj:<B>Re: Rich people (OT) </B><BR> > Date:2/14/2002 10:08:43 PM Pacific Standard Time<BR> > From:<A HREF="mailto:PNHISTIC1@AOL.COM">PNHISTIC1@AOL.COM</A><BR> > Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR> > To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A><BR> > <I>Sent from the Internet </I><BR> > <BR> > Hi Dave </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > <BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0"> God bless the financially affluent they choose to keep me busy in my rebuilding business. I like your perspectives. WHo are you any way?<BR> > &nbs p; Best--Dale Erwin</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > <BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR> > <BR> > Dave Writes<BR> > Rich people are people first, and rich second: in short, not that much <BR> > different than you and me. They could BE you and me had other choices been <BR> > made in our lives. Different sets of problems, to be sure, but problems none <BR> > the less. Few "have it made," depending on your definition of the phrase. <BR> > They have worries, medical ailments, car payments, lifestyle maintenance <BR> > costs(this is the gray area). They are certainly scrutinized more carefully <BR> > and judged more harshly than those with less financial wherewithal. But they <BR> > laugh, cry, sweat, bleed, sleep, and perform bodily functions like everyone <BR> > else. Some of them even spend real money on pianos. Is it better for a <BR> > family to own a brand new BB Mason and Hamlin and never to play <BR> > it--effectively, taking it out of circulation--than to own an Andrew Kohler <BR> > spinet and play the hell out of it? <BR> > <BR> > Dave Stahl <BR> > </BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT></HTML> > - --part1_f4.16f70b6e.29a2cf69_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:48:09 EST > From: Erwinspiano@AOL.COM > Subject: Re: Pneumatic Press Bending > > - --part1_180.3c75469.29a2d099_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > .> > > Sent from the Internet > > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > > Sent: February 17, 2002 6:34 AM > > Subject: Pneumatic Press Bending > > . > > Diito that Del 40to 45 lbs. pressure. Above 60 is scary. > >>>Dale > > > > > > I tested a bunch of different pressures with rib-to-soundboard joints a few > > years back. Below about 30 lbs the failure was predominately glue failure > > from thick glue joints. Above 70 lbs or so (I don't remember the exact > > figures) the failure was primarily due to starved glue joints. The > > strongest > > adhesive bonds resulted from pressures between about 40 lbs and 60 lbs > > where > > the predominate failure was with the wood. We use between 40 and 45 lbs in > > our press. > > > > Del > > > > > - --part1_180.3c75469.29a2d099_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0">.</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR> > <I>Sent from the Internet </I><BR> > <BR> > <BR> > <BR> > <BR> > - ----- Original Message -----<BR> > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com><BR> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org><BR> > Sent: February 17, 2002 6:34 AM<BR> > Subject: Pneumatic Press Bending<BR> > . </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"></BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > <BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0"> </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0">Diito that Del 40to 45 lbs. pressure. Above 60 is scary.<BR> > >>>Dale</FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=2 FAMILY="SANSSERIF" FACE="Arial" LANG="0"><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px"><BR> > <BR> > I tested a bunch of different pressures with rib-to-soundboard joints a few<BR> > years back. Below about 30 lbs the failure was predominately glue failure<BR> > from thick glue joints. Above 70 lbs or so (I don't remember the exact<BR> > figures) the failure was primarily due to starved glue joints. The strongest<BR> > adhesive bonds resulted from pressures between about 40 lbs and 60 lbs where<BR> > the predominate failure was with the wood. We use between 40 and 45 lbs in<BR> > our press.<BR> > <BR> > Del<BR> > </BLOCKQUOTE><BR> > </FONT><FONT COLOR="#000000" style="BACKGROUND-COLOR: #ffffff" SIZE=3 FAMILY="SERIF" FACE="Times New Roman Greek" LANG="0"><BR> > </FONT></HTML> > - --part1_180.3c75469.29a2d099_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:57:10 EST > From: A440A@AOL.COM > Subject: Re: pythagorean Meantone? > > Joe writes: > << I'm not sure, but the temperament listed, starts at A440 (0.0) and goes UP > > from there. Not being to experienced in HTs, doesn't the temperament go DOWN > > from A440? (That is if you are using A440 as the pitch criteria, rather than > > C.) > > Any thoughts on this? >> > > Temperaments don't "go" anywhere, they describe an octave. Many of them > will require more notes be raised from their normal ET than flattened, but > that is a minor detail when switching the milder temperaments around. > Regards, > Ed Foote RPT > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 16:24:22 -0600 > From: "Gerald Posey" <poseyviolins@charter.net> > Subject: silk for jack > > I have a small ,old, baby grand The silk loop that holds the wire spring > for the jack broke. Can someone tell me how fix it? I already have the > action out, but do I drill out the old silk or does it pull out some way?, > Is there some other material that works as well as silk? Is it a critical > adjustment? Thank you, > Gerald > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:44:05 -0500 > From: "Farrell" <mfarrel2@tampabay.rr.com> > Subject: Re: Was shim pins/now crack options > > If there are cracks and it appears a shim may not hold well, perhaps the thing to consider is a plug and drill for the original size pin. Not really very difficult to do at all and very long lasting. > > Terry Farrell > > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Wimblees@AOL.COM> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 8:58 AM > Subject: Re: Was shim pins/now crack options > > > > In a message dated 2/17/02 5:25:42 PM !!!First Boot!!!, drjazzca@yahoo.ca > > writes: > > > > > > > So if a few pin holes have cracks, > > > over sizing will aggravate the problem. > > > > > > Is swabbing the hole with epoxy before driving pins > > > considered acceptable for a client that does not want > > > to spend for a new block. Have people had tight > > > pins for a long time after doing this, or is it > > > to be condemned, and plugs are definitely the way to > > > go. > > > > > > > > > > Dave > > > > Just swabbing the sides of the hole will not make the CA glue or epoxy > > penetrate the cracks. I have done pin block repairs in the past. You want to > > fill the hole about half way up with an epoxy, and drive the pin ion. The > > epoxy then has to fine a way out, and the way is into the cracks, and around > > the pin. For better results, drive in a 2/0 pin, and after the epoxy has > > dried, remove the 2/0 and drive in a 3/0 pin. The torque will be a little > > snappy, but the pin will hold. I have done this kind of repair on a whole pin > > block with good results. It is a good fix on a piano that needs a new pin > > block, but where the customer doesn't want to pay for one. > > > > Wim > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 17:55:46 EST > From: LHudicek@AOL.COM > Subject: thank you all > > I wanted to thank all of you piano technicians for your comments on prepared > piano and playing on the inside of the piano. I will be going now! > > If you are interested, my first CD comes out next month on the Furious > Artisans label. Recorded on a Steinway Hall piano... with a very > understanding tech! Check it out... some very beautiful music. > > www.furiousartisans.com > > If you have any other thoughts, please just e-mail me directly > lhudicek@aol.com > > Best, > Laurie Hudicek, pianist > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 19:36:52 -0400 > From: "John Ross" <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> > Subject: Re: silk for jack > > Hi Gerald, > Sometimes there is a small dowel that holds the cord in place. If so drill > it out, and just insert the replacement cord and wedge in with a round tooth > pick and glue. > The proper cord is available from Schaff, #932 @ .89c a yard. I have used > fishing line and dial cord, which worked fine. > Be sure the loop is the same size as a good one. > Regards, > John M. Ross > Windsor, Nova Scotia. > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gerald Posey" <poseyviolins@charter.net> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Sent: Monday, February 18, 2002 6:24 PM > Subject: silk for jack > > > > I have a small ,old, baby grand The silk loop that holds the wire spring > > for the jack broke. Can someone tell me how fix it? I already have the > > action out, but do I drill out the old silk or does it pull out some way?, > > Is there some other material that works as well as silk? Is it a critical > > adjustment? Thank you, > > Gerald > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2002 18:38:58 EST > From: Wimblees@AOL.COM > Subject: Re: silk for jack > > - --part1_15f.906f726.29a2ea92_boundary > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > In a message dated 2/18/02 4:45:27 PM Central Standard Time, > poseyviolins@charter.net writes: > > > > I have a small ,old, baby grand The silk loop that holds the wire spring > > for the jack broke. Can someone tell me how fix it? I already have the > > action out, but do I drill out the old silk or does it pull out some way?, > > Is there some other material that works as well as silk? Is it a critical > > adjustment? Thank you, > > Gerald > > > > > > Gerald > > The right way to repair this is to drill out the wooden plug. Instead of silk > thread, you can use almost any other kind of thread. Fishing line is probably > the easiest to get. Loop the thread, and push it through the hole. Then plug > the hole with a round toothpick. > > For a quick fix, you can tie the thread around the jack adjustment screw. > > Wim > > - --part1_15f.906f726.29a2ea92_boundary > Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" > Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit > > <HTML><FONT FACE=arial,helvetica><FONT SIZE=2>In a message dated 2/18/02 4:45:27 PM Central Standard Time, poseyviolins@charter.net writes: > <BR> > <BR> > <BR><BLOCKQUOTE TYPE=CITE style="BORDER-LEFT: #0000ff 2px solid; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0px; PADDING-LEFT: 5px">I have a small ,old, baby grand The silk loop that holds the wire spring > <BR>for the jack broke. Can someone tell me how fix it? I already have the > <BR>action out, but do I drill out the old silk or does it pull out some way?, > <BR>Is there some other material that works as well as silk? Is it a critical > <BR>adjustment? Thank you, > <BR>Gerald > <BR> > <BR></BLOCKQUOTE> > <BR> > <BR>Gerald > <BR> > <BR>The right way to repair this is to drill out the wooden plug. Instead of silk thread, you can use almost any other kind of thread. Fishing line is probably the easiest to get. Loop the thread, and push it through the hole. Then plug the hole with a round toothpick. > <BR> > <BR>For a quick fix, you can tie the thread around the jack adjustment screw. > <BR> > <BR>Wim </FONT></HTML> > > - --part1_15f.906f726.29a2ea92_boundary-- > > ------------------------------ > > End of pianotech-digest V2002 #298 > ********************************** > > >
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