getting punch(y)ings

[Jeannie Grassi]

Sorry, David.  Yes that's right, I was talking about the method of lifting the keyframe.  Perhaps I missed an earlier post. (?)  A drawing would be great!  Thanks,

jeannie

Jeannie Grassi, RPT
Associate Editor, Piano Technicians Journal
mailto:jgrassi@silverlink.net 

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
Of David Love
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2002 5:24 PM
To: pianotech@ptg.org
Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings


Jeannie:

I assume you mean the stand.  I don't have a photo but I'll try and draw a
picture and fax or email it to you soon.

David Love


----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeannie Grassi" <jgrassi@silverlink.net>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: February 24, 2002 12:17 PM
Subject: RE: getting punch(y)ings


> Hi David,
> May I use this for TT&T?  And.....is it possible to photograph or draw
what you are talking about in the first paragraph.  Even if the photo isn't
that great, we can do a good illustration from it.
>
> Thanks,
> jeannie
>
> Jeannie Grassi, RPT
> Associate Editor, Piano Technicians Journal
> mailto:jgrassi@silverlink.net
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pianotech@ptg.org [mailto:owner-pianotech@ptg.org]On Behalf
> Of David Love
> Sent: Friday, February 22, 2002 10:22 PM
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings
>
>
> One final thought on this.  If you are concerned about the precariousness
of
> the stick prop, cut a "V" shape in the top to cradle the key frame and
> secure the prop to a flat base, maybe 8" x 8".  If you are really nervous,
> make two of them.  Keep them at the ends of the action so that when you
lift
> the action to place the punchings you can slide them into place at both
> ends.
>
> Steinway accelerated action bearings can also be done with the stack on
> method but you have to use a bent tool to lift them.  I use a spring hook
> and it works fine.  It's a bit tricky to not let them spin around, but it
> does work.
>
> Another tip, when trying to determine what punching to place under the
key,
> glue two of each of the different size punchings together and keep them as
> guides.  When you lay the straight edge, test the gap by sliding these
> double punchings into the gap.  Since a punching placed halfway back at
the
> balance rail will raise the key approximately twice its thickness, this
> gives you a very quick way to determine what should go under there.  So if
> the space between the leveling stick and the top of the key will
accommodate
> two blue punchings exactly, put one under the balance rail and that will
get
> you very close.  You can usually do the leveling job in two passes.  I
don't
> know about anyone else, but key leveling is right up there with my
favorite
> activities next to polishing key pins and cleaning the bathroom.
>
> David Love
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dave Nereson" <dnereson@dimensional.com>
> To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: February 21, 2002 5:27 PM
> Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings
>
>
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Bigeartb@AOL.COM>
> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2002 7:34 PM
> > Subject: Re: getting punch(y)ings
> >
> >
> > > Wilem:
> > > I bought a sponge in a glass container in order to keep my finger
> > damp....no
> > > licking. But while we're on this subject, some technicians evidently
> level
> > > the keys by cutting a "V" in the punchings so they can insert them
> without
> > > removing the keys. Do you know anything about this technique? Is is
> > > acceptable practice?
> > >
> > > Tommy Black
> > > Decatur, Ala.
> >
> >     I'm not Wilem, but cutting a 'V', or just a radial cut straight
across
> > one side of the punching, is for when you tip a grand action up on the
> edge
> > of the back rail -- then keys can be lifted up and punchings inserted
from
> > underneath.  Kenzo Utsunomiya at Yamaha's Little Red Schoolhouse uses
this
> > method.  He makes chalk marks first on the front rail telling him what
> size
> > punchings he needs to insert.  I will use it only for a few keys, to
avoid
> > unscrewing the stack.  Otherwise, I think it's a big hassle.  You of
> course
> > have to remove the keystop rail for any method of key leveling.  But
with
> > this method of standing the action up on its back edge,  you also have
to
> > watch that the drop screws don't gouge the stretcher, and drape
something
> > over it if they're going to.   With some grand actions, the keys extend
> back
> > farther than the back rail, so when you tip it up on edge, the keys want
> to
> > ride up on their pins, the action isn't in a stable position, and it's
> quite
> > difficult to lift keys and insert punchings.  It's difficult, no matter
> what
> > type of action.  If the key is over part of the keyframe (the slats that
> > span between the balance and front rails), it's just hell to get the
> > tweezers in there at the right angle and get the cut punching to go on
to
> > the pin -- a 'V' does work better than just a plain cut, though.  You're
> > supposed to face right and let the action lean against your left hip,
> > leaving both hands free for manipulating keys and punchings.  But if you
> > have to do some keys way down in the first octave, you have to face left
> and
> > preferably be left-handed.   It can be done, with the right attitude, as
> > David Love describes.  The stick propping up the action sounds
precarious
> to
> > me.  I would think the weight of the action would tip the bench over.  I
> > dunno -- to me it's much easier to take the
> > stack off and use the weights on the backchecks (unless it's just a few
> > keys).        --David Nereson, RPT, Denver
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>