Replacing Spinet Strings

[Dave Nereson]

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment

  ----- Original Message -----=20
  From: Kelly & Bill=20
  To: Pianotech=20
  Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2002 4:57 PM
  Subject: Replacing Spinet Strings


  List,
  =20
  What is the easiest way to replace a broken string in a spinet action =
provided it cannot be spliced?  I just did this on a 1970 Hobart M. =
Cable Spinet on C8 - probably the easiest one in the piano and it was a =
great struggle.  I do not look forward to dealing with the overstrung =
section of a spinet.  I did it with the action still in the piano.  Is =
there an easier way or some invented tool to simplify the procedure?
  =20
  Thanks,
  William R. Monroe
  Salt Lake City

      Yeah, it's not easy.  I remove the action bolt nuts so I can at =
least pull the action back as far as it will go (remove soft pedal rod). =
 The paper clip idea works.  I've often wished I had a "forked =
screwdriver", like a long skinny dandelion digger, but haven't bothered =
to make one yet (another tool to carry,  although I could leave it in =
the car).  This would help for pushing the hitch pin loop down, but so =
far I've gotten by with the stringing hook and a long thin (9 in.) =
spring hook.  I measure first, then make the hitch pin bend, then =
pre-wind the coils with a coil winder (tuning pin in a little block of =
hardwood and a tuning pin crank, Schaff item #109).  Then I poke the =
"pre-formed" string down behind the pressure bar (sometimes have to curl =
the hitch-pin bend end) and fish it through with the stringing hook.  =
Here's where you would fasten the hitch pin end to a neighboring string =
with a paper clip.  Then use a forked screwdriver or hook or stick to =
push it down,  or reach up from underneath the action with a hook to =
pull it down, until you can get the bend over the hitch pin and fasten =
it with vise-grips or a hemostat or other clamp.   Then put the coils =
over the tuning pins and finish up.  =20
      If you prefer to get the string over the hitch pin first, then the =
curtain rod tool can be used (it has to be flattened a little first) or =
the two-1/8"-tubes-epoxied-to-a-slat tool.  But then you can't have the =
coils pre-wound.  Well, maybe with the curtain rod you can.  To poke the =
string up behind the pressure bar from the bottom, I still use one of =
the first tools I made -- it's a depleted ball point pen refill (brass =
tube) that's bent into a question mark shape.  This can be inserted =
behind the pressure bar from the top, then the string poked into the =
tube, then push the string up while withdrawing the pen refill tube.
      The whole ordeal can be hard on the back.  Pause often to bend =
back the other way;  sit on the floor if necessary;  bend knees rather =
than stooping, etc.  =20
      If there were many broken strings, or they were in the overstrung =
area,  or the strings needed seating on the bridges anyhow, I would =
definitely take the action out.  Ssome spinets are easier than others as =
far as popping out all the lifter wires and putting them back in.  I =
hope you do have the sectional rod that screws together to make one long =
rod.   And I'll admit there are a few spinets where you have to take the =
keys out to get the action out because bridle wires and backchecks hang =
up too much on the forks on the ends of the keys.
      Hope it doesn't happen often.                            =
Sincerely, David Nereson, RPT, Denver

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment
An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/13/54/27/f9/attachment.htm

---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--