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Terry,
Yes I read it. The link didn't work (for me) but i saw the unit from
a previous search anyway. I saw the price as the $1,600 that del
mentioned but the used one i saw this morning was $900. More of a
possibility for me than new. I'll have to keep looking.
Greg
Farrell wrote:
> Thanks Del. I feel like I've got some good ammo now. "But, I suspect
> you're thinking like a boatbuilder now. The method you're describing
> sound some like fairing a boat hull. No?" Boy oh boy, you should see
> what such a tool can help you do in prepping a transom before
> varnishing. You can get the mirror finish without all those wigglies
> you so often see! Now how did you know that was where I got the idea
> from? "I did have a small, but excellent (Inca), thickness planer to
> thickness the stock with. This was pretty expensive back then, but
> pretty good ones are available for just a few hundred bucks now. One
> of the table-top 12"ers will work just fine." I have my new Dewald 12"
> planer that works great! Or at least it did before I ran a board with
> a drywall screw in it through :-(. I guess that is why they give you
> and extra set of blades with the machine! I'm sure I will be using it
> for a panel to get close to desired thickness. "I edge glued them with
> simple bar clamps--still do, though I've modified them a bit to get
> them to stay in place--and hand planed them to thickness with a
> variety of hand planes. Then sanded." This sounds like the way to go
> with board #1. This is pretty consistent with what Stephen Birkett was
> suggesting (thanks Stephen!). OK, I'm ready to roll! Just gotta get a
> couple pianos out of my shop and to their owners homes and then I'll
> rip into this project. Have you gotten all this Greg
> Newell?????? Terry Farrell
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Delwin D Fandrich
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Sent: Friday, January 18, 2002 11:40 AM
> Subject: Re: my own Soundboard
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Farrell
> To: pianotech@ptg.org
> Sent: January 18, 2002 5:01 AM
> Subject: Re: my own Soundboard
> Woooh! Yeah. OK, I see now. I guess that is the
> difference between someone that builds quite a few
> panels, and one that is thinking about his first!
> I suspect such a machine is a bit beyond me at
> this time. I studied the picture for quite a while
> trying to figure out exactly what does what on
> this machine and am not quite there - don't even
> try to enlighten me, because clearly, I will not
> be using any such machine for a long time!
>
> A semi-reasonable alternative might be found at:
>
> http://www.grizzly.com/products/item.cfm?Product_ID=14905??User_ID=142096?St=4536?St2=86010195?St3=-47549886?DS_ID=1
>
> Just in case this doesn't work, this is the address of
> Grizzly Tools. And specifically, their Model G5394 Stroke
> Sander. It's a bit smaller--a 58" x 24" working table
> size--but I know of at least one rebuilder who has used it
> successfully to sand even concert grand sized soundboards.
> Like ours, it requires some outboard supports to hold the
> things up. But the price is more like $1,600 than $4,600.
>
> If you don't yet have a Grizzly catalog, you should get one.
> Decent imported machinery at reasonable prices with
> reasonable support.
>
>
>
> But, what I do have, and what I think might work
> reasonably well, is a BIG sanding block. I mean
> big. I found a real nice flat (like totally flat)
> piece of poplar (I think it is about 6 inches
> wide by about 5 feet long) and epoxied a strong
> lattice work of straight dry oak planks up on edge
> (just to try and keep the poplar board real flat,
> i.e. not twisting, bowing, etc. - the back side of
> my poplar plank looks like the underneath of a
> Bosendorfer). Then I made a couple clamp thingees
> on the back side, one at each end. Then I bought
> three sanding belts - I forget right off what
> grits - 60, 80, 120 or there abouts - that are 6
> inches wide and 3 feet in diameter (6-foot-plus in
> circumference). Cut them and attach the belts such
> that I have what is just like the little
> half-sheet rubber sanding blocks, only mine is 6
> inches by 5 feet.
>
> You might also invest in a couple of good quality hand
> planes. Mine are the Japanese draw type which I find easier
> to use on a large panel such as a soundboard.
>
>
>
> Would you think that careful use of such a sanding
> tool on a soundboard panel would have the
> potential to result in successful nice, even,
> thickness reduction? (The panel would need to be
> laid on a very flat table of course! - which I
> have - my regulating table - that I made real flat
> with use of my BIG sanding block!) A few strokes
> this way, a few strokes at right angles to that,
> moving all around, and so on?
>
> Of course. Soundboards were surfaced by hand for many
> decades before all of our elaborate power stuff came along.
> We're so far removed from those methods we generally don't
> even think of them until the power goes off. Personally, I'd
> work with the hand planes a bit before getting into the
> sanding. But, I suspect you're thinking like a boatbuilder
> now. The method you're describing sound some like fairing a
> boat hull. No?
>
>
>
> Unless there are obvious flaws here, I suppose the
> way to go is "try it and see"! Am I on to a simple
> workable solution here? Or am I just treading
> water before I sink?
>
> So what if you do sink? The water's not deep--paddle ashore
> and start over. You sound like someone who actually learns
> from his mistakes. It won't take you long to work out a
> reasonable process you can then share with others.
>
>
>
> How do others in the "one or two soundboards a
> year" shop do it? Thanks.
>
> My first soundboard panels were done mostly by hand. I used
> the table saw to rip my boards to width. I cleaned up the
> edges with a very shooting plane. I did have a small, but
> excellent (Inca), thickness planer to thickness the stock
> with. This was pretty expensive back then, but pretty good
> ones are available for just a few hundred bucks now. One of
> the table-top 12"ers will work just fine. (Run the boards
> through gentle at first--you want to find the grain slope
> and mark them for orientation.) I edge glued them with
> simple bar clamps--still do, though I've modified them a bit
> to get them to stay in place--and hand planed them to
> thickness with a variety of hand planes. Then sanded.
>
> Go for it, and good luck.
>
> Del
>
--
Greg Newell
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net
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