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In a message dated 1/18/2002 6:23:50 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gnewell@ameritech.net writes:
> Subj:Re: my own Soundboard
> Date:1/18/2002 6:23:50 PM Pacific Standard Time
> From:<A HREF="mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net">gnewell@ameritech.net</A>
> Reply-to:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
> To:<A HREF="mailto:pianotech@ptg.org">pianotech@ptg.org</A>
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
> Dale and Terry,
> I whole heartedly agree!!!!
>
> Dale,
> Can you describe your method for laying out and calculating the crown?
> Greg Erwinspiano
>
>
Greg
I changed my mind. Its' still fri.
It's not very scientific but I have a crown chart that has lengths in
inches going down the left hand column of the page. Across the top is radius
no.'s 25 ft. 30 ft. and so on out to about an 80 ft. Radius. I simply select
the rib length and the radius I want and read to the right of the rib length
no. under the 60 ft. radius column and voila!! precalculated crown no.s . The
chart was compiled and shared with me by John Hartman and is a handy resource
for quick calculations. No number crunching is required. Not very glamorous
ehh. oh well
The decsion making process for choosing a crown dimension is a different
matter. I find that many techs use very similar rib crown specs . I. e. I use
a 60 ft. in the bottom of the panel except no 1 which gets a bit less. why
because it get less bearing and need a bit more flexiblity IMHO. The top
five treble ribs get a bit more crown with the top being as tight as 25 or 30
ft. radius rib this is my current process.
My procedures have changed with time. I used to crown ribs less and dry
more (4.5%). Now I dry to about 6% And crown more.
This yields a nice healthy hemispherical crown after installation about 10
mm at roughly 8 to 8.5% e.mc. (45 to 50 R.H.) of about. This measured on the
longest rib prestrung. The shortest rib appox. 1 to 1.5mm crown. Huge ehh?
My Rib material of choice is nice tight grain sugar pine. Sometimes I've
used spruce in the bottom 6 or seven. I've made a decision recently that
increasing rib depth more than a mm except on the longest ribs is usually not
necessary or ( some may disagree and that's O.K. ) in original
design boards because of the increased stiffness of rib crowning itself.
What rib crowning does as I see it is take a component of stiffness away from
the soundboard panel and adds it the stiffness factor of the ribs without
changing the mass of the whole system. I.e. duplicating the original rib
depth providing the were reasonable as well as the soundbord thickness.
The idea, as has been stated many times, is of course to provide for a
longer lasting crown without the damage of over compressing the spruce while
maintaining excellent tonal characteristics.
There are two ways I know to cut crown into ribs. One is a router jig or
jigs and the other is a jig made to cut the crown o a table saw. This is my
personal weapon of choice as it has great and easy flexibility to cut a crown
of any reasonable radius leaving an excellant machined gluing surface. Easy
to construct and safe unless brain dead. I could post a picture if need be.
Pictures are worth a thous. words aren't they?
I radius the top (botom) of the ribs on a router table using a large and
wicked radius bit. I cut the scallops on the ends, sand and save the pieces
for glue up in the press.
I put all the ribs on the board in a fire hose press that is setup all the
time so I can easily set it up and press the ribs on in about 1 1/2 hrs. I
use about 50 psi. Fabulous glue joints.
All the ribs are crowned, fit to the case rib notches &sanded prior to
glue up.
I'm Leaving out details but hey it's friday night.
More fun than a barrel O monkeys
Dale Erwin
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