Water-Base Lacquer

[Greg Newell]

Mark,
         This could well be what I have been experiencing. On my last job I 
was afraid to sand down too much as I had gone through the veneer once 
already and I'm not very good, yet , at patching areas like that. I didn't 
want to make another problem for myself so I treated any additional sanding 
very gingerly.

Greg


At 10:19 PM 6/6/2002, you wrote:

> > In a message dated 06/06/02 5:04:37 PM, gnewell@ameritech.net
> > writes:
> >
> > << Now, how about the difference between a
> > sanding sealer and something else like  ... say ... shellac. I have
> > been told that a coat of shellac will even out how wood takes stain. Do
>
> > you find this to be the case?>>
>
>Hi Greg -
>
>Yes, shellac can perform the function of 'wood conditioner' quite well.
>Best is to use it very thin - ie. 1/2 lb. cut.  If spraying, you CAN mist
>it on, but better, more even performance can be had by flooding the
>surface and immediately wiping the excess off.  Gives the thirsty cells a
>chance to act more like the denser sections when applying stain.  Of
>course, you could also use a rag for application.  You gotta work quick!
>
>I have to wonder if your some of your splotchiness, or muddy-look comes
>from not completely removing the filler so that it is truly just left 'in
>the pores'.  Any left on the surface will really give you a muddy look.
>I have found that scotchbright pads are great for removing that last haze
>of filler without as much danger of removing wood and color as sandpaper.
>  The maroon pad is aggressive enough to perform this task well.
>
>Mark Potter
>bases-loaded@juno.com
>

Greg Newell
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net