Phil,
Using a standard 20" shank clamp and 50 grit (or tired 36 grit)on
a 4-6" air (or electric) right angle rotary grinder/sander, the entire
operation of removing shank ends and perfectly shaping the tails is a dusty
10 minutes. Nicely squared to the back checks, no burn marks, felt lines
that avoid the custom boring, and no checkering files needed.
Under 50 bucks for the grinder/sander. 'Bout the same for the
clamp. Air is a lot quieter. For more bucks a Roto-Zip with a right angle
attachment works, and lets you see the progress easily, and can be used for
lots of other stuff. (Basically a Dremel on steroids)
Register for the rebuilding skills workshop in Chicago and see it
again. Last year we dusted half the room! (and made a bit of noise,
too..... sorry)
I didn't invent this method, but I've used no other since.
Guy Nichols, RPT
Ft. Stinkin' Desert, NM
At 04:22 PM 6/18/02 -0500, you wrote:
>I would love to hear some of the methods for trimming excess grand shanks.
>It's always been a struggle for me. I've used hand jigsaws, small drum
>sanders, flexblades from Bill Spurlock, etc. Years ago I had a dremel rotary
>saw blade that worked well, but it seems to be no longer available. How do
>you do it?
>
>Thanks
>
>Phil Frankenberg
>Chico Ca.
"Things are more like they are now than they ever were before."
-Former U.S. President Dwight D. Eisenhower
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