Hammer tapering Jig (just for Jim B)

[Greg Newell]

Roger,
         Thanks for sharing. I look forward to seeing the pictures ... or 
plans.

Greg


At 06:55 PM 5/13/2002, you wrote:
>At 08:35 PM 5/13/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >Friends,
> >
> >I hope Roger Jolly doesn't mind me letting the cat out of the bag.  He
> >has such a jig which tapers hammers on shank.  I constructed the
> >mirror-image pair (one for shanks left and one for shanks right) from
> >his precise engineer's drawings and use them regularly for tapering
> >hammers, off or on shank.
> >
> >Best regards,
> >
> >Stan Kroeker
> >Registered Piano Technician
>
>
>Meow!!!!!!!!!
>
>
>Hi Stan,
>           If you can scan the drawings please feel free to post them to the
>list.  And Derek if you still have the photos please post them.
>
>The set screws, set very accurate angles so if you take 2 degrees off one
>side you then take 4 degrees off the other.  I use scrap hammers to double
>check the angles before making the first cut.   Ops! Darn! how can I put
>that wood back.  <G>
>
>I do have copies of drawings that I use for my classes, so if Stan cannot
>post them, I will send them to a volenteer that can.
>
>The jig uses a table saw, so there is no discoloration of felt, and precise
>control of taper can be made from the strike point back
>
>The jig has a cut out to allow for the angled shank.  A left and a right
>jig is need if hammers are done with shanks on.
>
>Cutting from tail to strike point removes a little more felt, and a lot
>more mass, this an important consideration with light mahogany moldings,
>since only a small amount of mass reduction is attained from the molding.
>
>Using a good quality, sharp blade is important for best results.  Don't go
>too fast with the rate of feed, and there will be no scorch marks on felt
>or wood. Just a nice clean cut.
>
>regards Roger
>Roger Jolly
>Balwin Yamaha Piano Centres.
>Saskatoon/Regina.
>Canada.

Greg Newell
mailto:gnewell@ameritech.net