Yamaha Upright hammer flanges( kind of long)

[Tom Driscoll]

List,

I am about to make a bid on a job to replace all the hammer flanges in a

Yamaha P-22 studio upright(the threads are breaking at a prodigious
rate, as 
per a previous post...).  My "G" works labor guide suggests that this
might 
take me 5 hours.  Has anybody done this?  I think that Joe's estimate is

reasonable, giving a bit less than 4 minutes per flange, but I wonder if

anybody out there has done this job before?

Thanks for any input!

Dave Stahl

Dave,
	I've done many of these jobs and have posted a method for
replacement of the cords in the past. With input from a tech in Japan,
(Sorry, but his name escapes me now) I refined my approach so at the
risk of some redundancy here goes. First, we are assuming that the
pinning is solid, the flanges are well traveled, and the hammers are not
worn past reshaping. These pianos are usually less than 20 years old and
if not in a school situation, I've found them to meet these criteria.
	 I first tighten all screws and space hammers. Reshape hammers
and blow out all debris. Remove the hammer rest rail--easily done in
this action by unscrewing the hangers from the rail. Next Loosen the
butt plate screws and hang the whole butt-hammer assembly from the
bridle straps without disconnecting them from the bridle wire.(That was
the tip from our Japanese friend ) Now the flanges are exposed for
removing and replacing the cords. I put a small amount of ca glue
solvent on the slots and then immediately clean out the old cord and
slot with the chisel point of a small spade drill bit.( By hand -not
chucked in the drill!)  You may have to reapply the solvent as you go
and I suspect acetone is the the operative chemical at work here. 
	Now for the cords. If this is not a gray market piano you can
get the cord from Yamaha wrapped around a small cardboard tube. If not
available wrap some silk cord ( avail. From Schaff ) around an old #88
key top and slice down the middle. Either way, but the idea is to get 88
cords cut to exact length. Now glue one side in the slot -I use
titebond- a small amount -and press the cord in the slot with a small
screw driver lining up the end of the cord with the line in the flange.
By the time you get to the end the glue will be set. Go back and glue
the other side. Reinstall the hammer-butt assemblies, put the springs in
the cords, reinstall the rest rail and your done . Two hours max and
less with practice.  
	The advantage over replacing the flanges is not only time, but
it is difficult to travel the new flanges with the dampers in the way,
your spacing will not change and the old flanges are already
dimensionally more stable @ the screw and will not need retightening as
soon. 
	Tell me this is a worn action with loose pinning and flange
replacement is the best way. Also if this is an action without butt
plates and the flange is pinned to the butt in my opinion it's less
clear which method is best. I've done about quite a few+ of these and
almost all have the butt plate style.  
	` Tom Driscoll