Upright Top & Sides

[Farrell]

Yes, I think it was Gordon Holley who suggested drilling a couple locator holes. I drilled four 1/2" holes - two in each side, near the top and bottom. I even measure how wide the darn thing was before I tore it down so that I can make it the same width again!

Boy, I feel like its just about finished - now that I got the hard part done - all I gotta do now is that little soundboard thing - but that's real thin, some bridges - but they aren't very big, and those peg things up near the top - they are real small.

Terry Farrell
  
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@cox.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Wednesday, October 16, 2002 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Upright Top & Sides


> 
> >Thanks to all. Three old chisels, a medium sledge hammer, and a bit of 
> >oomph and both sides and top are off my M&H upright. Thanks for all the 
> >suggestions. A bit of damage occurred, but all is easily repaired. BTW, 
> >the tops on old M&H uprights are glued on!
> >
> >Terry Farrell
> 
> 
> Ah, I didn't get back in time to add to the confusion... That's what I've 
> always used, a couple of chisels and my trusty four pounder pounder. Every 
> other year or so through the eighties, I used to get a call from someone 
> (referral) who had remodeled their basement, moved the stairway, and 
> permanently built their player into the basement - later deciding to sell 
> it because it no longer fit the decor. Sigh. Or they had bought one and 
> couldn't get it into their basement, which evidently had appropriate decor 
> AFTER the remodel. I even disassembled one in one basement, and reassembled 
> it in another, since it would go neither in, nor out of either intact.
> 
> whoopee.
> 
> Holes drilled through the sides of the back posts and into the sides, 
> before disassembly, for either dowels or at least screws, do help with 
> alignment when you reassemble. Good old pipe clamps.
> 
> 
> Ron N
> 


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