"white glue"

[Alan R. Barnard]

Thanks for nifty post. But I don't understand the function of the white
glue. Why not just a thickish CA like Bondini? Do you use white rather than
Titebond just for the color? (It's one more thing to care--and protect from
freezing)

Plastic AND ivory? Any difference in reaction?

Thanks,

Alan Barnard
Stickin' Down Keytops in Salem, MO

----- Original Message -----
From: "Susan Kline" <sckline@attbi.com>
To: "Mike and Jane Spalding" <mjbkspal@execpc.com>; "Pianotech"
<pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 4:06 PM
Subject: Re: "white glue"


> Hi, Mike
>
> I use Elmer's. Any of the other water-based glues such as carpenter's
> yellow glue, Titebond, etc., will react with the CA, but I usually use
> Elmer's.
>
> A good dry fit is essential. While the two-glues may fill small gaps, they
> aren't a real gap-filler like epoxy is.
>
> For gluing on keytops, you don't need much white glue (at all.) I've often
> done just fine by cleaning the old cloth underlayment with a damp rag, to
> get the black dirt off. This gives just enough dampness to set the CA
glue,
> and it leaves a little of the old hide glue, which is compatible with the
> CA glue. If you doubt that CA will bond well enough to the barely damp
> keystick, or if you had to take off the old cloth underlay, so that you
> have bare wood, you can just put a little smear of Elmer's evenly over the
> whole area. Go very light toward the seam, since you don't want it to
> squeeze through and ruin the evenness of the join. Put on the Elmer's
> first, since it gives you a longer working time than the CA.
>
> You shouldn't put the white glue on the ivory, since it will absorb the
> moisture and warp. The back of the ivory must, of course, be clean. The
> ivory should be reasonably unwarped. If you're gluing down an ivory where
> the side edges curl up, you should probably use a key clamp and a
different
> glue.
>
> Once all is ready, I lay the ivory face down on a paper towel or
newspaper,
> and put several little dots of CA glue onto it. I then spread this
> (quickly) with a small screwdriver, taking it right to the edges, but once
> again trying to get some but not too much near the seam. Then comes the
> tricky part -- picking the ivory up by the edges (make SURE that you have
> no white glue on your fingers!), placing the back edge firmly against the
> end of the tail, and pressing it down, making sure that the edges are
lined
> up right. Be aware that the CA will react with the plastic of the front,
so
> if a drop gets onto the front, wick it gently away with the corner of a
> paper towel, but don't rub it. By the way, CA glue will also totally wreck
> the surface of a formica countertop -- don't ask how I know --
>
> The glue should set up in seconds, so you have very little leeway to fit
it
> on right. For a very short time, if it's wrong you can still pull the
ivory
> off, but it's kind of a mess trying to clean it again and start over.
>
> Be sure you have acetone with you (I keep nail polish remover in a ziploc
> bag in a picnic cooler in the car.) It's hard to keep all the CA off your
> fingers, and it's very easy to leave a good gluey fingerprint on the
ivory.
> CA will take this right off, and not hurt the ivory -- but it will ruin
the
> keyfront if any wanders onto it.
>
> Enjoy, enjoy -- I hope.
>
> Susan
>
>
>
> At 01:46 PM 10/17/2002 -0500, you wrote:
> >List,
> >
> >There have been several threads over the last couple of years about a
> >technique (Susan Kline's?) for re-attaching ivory keytops using "white
> >glue" on the keystick and thin CA on the ivory.   Also used for other
> >repairs requiring gap filling quick setting adhesive.  Several listees
> >have endorsed this method.  I would try it too, except I don't know which
> >"white glue" to use.  Is the "white glue" you all are using Elmer's?
> >
> >thanks,
> >
> >Mike Spalding RPT
> >
> >_______________________________________________
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>
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