Upright pinblock removal

[John Ross]

Good point about the drilling method, being best for Andre's
replacement pinblock. I hadn't thought that part out.

With a guide and a circular saw, if the sides are removed, a person
could make a nice deep cut, then with a large hammer and chisel, it
should pop out.

Regards,
John M. Ross
Windsor, Nova Scotia.
jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Renaud" <drjazzca@yahoo.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Sunday, October 20, 2002 8:56 AM
Subject: Upright pinblock removal


| I have watched Bolduc replace a upright pinblock at a
| weekend seminar class.
| and since removed one block using his method.
|
| After a couple hours drilling holes and a single cut
| with a circular saw set to the correct depth mine
| popped of very easily.
|
| I could have saved an hour by not drilling all those
| holes and just cutting 15-20 strips across the
| pinblock with the circular saw(take 5min)set 1 mm
| above the depth of the block, and just popped of the
| strips
| with a chisel.
|
| Then a damp cloth is placed on the 1mm remaining
| layer.
| Apply a hot iron and let it do the work. It peals off.
|
| the remaining pinblock without having to touch/ damage
| the joint surface.
|
| The sides did come off. The only reason I see to take
| time drilling all the holes is to preserve the old
| block so he can make a duplicate.
| Just accurately measure depth before cutting, as that
| is loss. Since my project had a perfectly rectangular
| block, that was not really necessary to preserve the
| old block, could have cut it off.
|
| As for integrity of frame, once the frame is bare,
| reinforce all joints, soak with glue, drill into
| joints and add maple dowel plugs linking fame
| components securely.
|
|                                              Cheers
|                                              Dave
| Renaud
|                                              RPT
|                                              Canada
|
|
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