separated pin block

[Mike and Jane Spalding]

Hi Roger,

I like your idea about using the proper length lag bolt.  But I'm not convinced that letting down the tension is a good idea.  I've only done this repair once - I dropped the tension about 1/4 turn on the pins (piano was already way flat).  when I went to raise pitch, many pins would only turn a small amount before they bound up tight.  It felt like they were bottoming out in their holes , like maybe the epoxy wicked in there and filled the holes behind the pins.  Do you ever have a problem with the epoxy wicking in around the tuning pins and making them extremely hard to turn?  

Mike Spalding RPT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: Baldwin Yamaha Piano Centre <baldwin@mta-01.sk.sympatico.ca>
To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, September 06, 2002 5:00 PM
Subject: Re: separated pin block


> Hi Leslie,
>                   I have fixed dozens of these type of problems.  More 
> often than not the lag bolts will only go in to the pin block assembly, and 
> many of the bolts are actually pushing the back assembly away from the pin 
> block.
> Drop the tension off the strings.
> Get some lag bolts that will about the length of the top thickness.  Drill 
> a clearance hole through the block material, and the correct sized pilot 
> hole through the back assembly.
> When gluing and screwing two pieces of wood together, it is wise to have a 
> clearance hole through the first piece, and the correct sized pilot hole in 
> the second. This will prevent the screw thread from pushing one piece of 
> lumber away from the other, which is what has happened so often before.
> With the aid of about 6 good C clamps, dry fit the joint back 
> together.   Drill holes. Insert long lag bolts.  remove clamps to check to 
> see if the bolts hold.
> Remove bolts. the split will open up.
> Use west system epoxy, ( or equivalent) ( water thin type) work lots into 
> crack.  Tighten clamps and bolts, making sure you have squeeze out.  Clean 
> excess epoxy with acetone soaked rag.
> This will give you an invisible repair.No protruding nuts at the rear of 
> the piano to scar the customers wall.  The long lag bolts that Yamaha 
> grands have in their packing cases are perfect for most jobs.
> Wait at least 24hrs before putting the tension back on.
> I think I would get rid of that heater box, and install a proper Damp 
> Chaser with a control system.
> Regards Roger
> 
> At 12:55 PM 9/6/02 -0500, you wrote:
> >I have a customer with an Everett console, the pin block on which is
> >separating from the back posts and frame.  Not much more than 3/16 of an
> >inch at the bass end, none at the treble end. Does one simply remove the
> >top row of plate screws, drill all the way through, and put stove bolts
> >through, or does one also use part of the screws lower down?
> >
> >What diameter of bolts?
> >
> >Does one have to lower tension on strings before pulling them up?
> >
> >Does one put glue down in the crack?
> >
> >The piano seems awfully dry. A heater bar with a small brown box was
> >installed, but I have a hunch the little brown box didn't turn the bar
> >off, and it's been drying away for some years.
> >thanks
> >les bartlett
> >
> >________________________________________________________________
> >GET INTERNET ACCESS FROM JUNO!
> >Juno offers FREE or PREMIUM Internet access for less!
> >Join Juno today!  For your FREE software, visit:
> >http://dl.www.juno.com/get/web/.
> 
> Roger
> 
> 
>