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Hi Terry,
The technique also works well for grand to rim fitting, I
have found more than one or two loose.
Roger
At 08:42 AM 9/8/02 -0400, you wrote:
>You are just absolutely too amazing! Tell me if I am picturing this right:
>You drill a 1/2" hole (horizontal to the ground and perpendicular to the
>piano back) along the vertical joint line on the back of the piano between
>the post and the spacer? And then epoxy the dowel in the hole?
>
>I'm sure that would indeed firm the back right up! This is a VERY good
>idea for when you have the separated back on those short pianos where the
>entire tenor tuning pin field covers much of the upper section of the
>plate and you just can't put a bolt or lag through a post.
>
>I have through bolted through a spacer that was unsecured. Believe me, the
>spacer moves, not the plate!
>
>Terry Farrell
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "jolly roger" <baldyam@sk.sympatico.ca>
>To: <pianotech@ptg.org>
>Sent: Saturday, September 07, 2002 2:00 AM
>Subject: Re: separated pin block
>
>
> > At 09:53 PM 9/6/02 -0400, you wrote:
> > >Sounds like a good way to make this repair real neat. I have bent a
> couple
> > >BIG "C" clamps doing this repair. I have found pipe clamps to work better
> > >for me. But hey, that's just me! ;-)
> > >
> > >Terry Farrell
> > Hi Terry ,
> > I have 6 really heavy duty German made C clamps, with
> > lots of torque.
> > If the lag screws go into spacer blocks I dowel the spacers to the back
> > post with 1/2" maple dowel. Run the dowel through the belt sander to
> put
> > a small flat down it. A liberal amount of epoxy down the hole. Insert
> the
> > dowel rod, twisting it as you go. This will allow a space to get the
> excess
> > epoxy to get out. It will make the back support nice and solid.
> > Roger
> >
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