Mitre saw keyfront removal.

[Joe And Penny Goss]

Mike,
I have to strongly disagree, at least for this clutz.
My jig holds the key for me with a little help from my left hand while my
right hand opperates the saw blade. Quick as 5 seconds per key the key top
surface is prepared. I have tried the table saw and the radial or chop saw
with a large blade is by far the best for my use.
At the present the jig is on loan to be cloned.
I hope to get it back in a month.
Joe Goss
imatunr@srvinet.com
www.mothergoosetools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Kurta" <mkurta@adelphia.net>
To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 8:14 PM
Subject: Re: Mitre saw keyfront removal.


>     Table saw works better-no flex or wobble, more accurate and safer too.
>     Mike Kurta
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <tune4u@earthlink.net>
> To: "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org>
> Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 9:15 PM
> Subject: RE: Mitre saw keyfront removal.
>
>
> > Sounds very reasonable. I'd want to make darned sure nothing moved, so
> maybe
> > a mark scribed or drawn on the sawbed or guide at the end of your
clamped
> > stop block?
> >
> > Alan
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]On
> > Behalf Of gordon stelter
> > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2003 7:53 PM
> > To: Pianotech
> > Subject: Mitre saw keyfront removal.
> >
> >
> > I haven't tried this yet, but it occurred to me that
> > an accurate way to remove keyfronts with a "chop-saw"
> > might be as follows:
> >      1) Place a key to the left or right of the saw
> > blade, depending on the "dogleg's" necessity to stay
> > clear of rear fence. Place it under the blade so that
> > exactly the right amount will be trimmed off.
> >       2) Take a block of some stable material and butt
> > it against that key's front. Then clamp another block
> > to the saw base, butted up against the far end of the
> > first.
> >       3) Now, by butting your "measuring block"
> > against the permanently clamped "stop block" and then
> > clamping the key in place against the "measuring
> > block" before tremoving it, the keys should all have
> > exactly the same amount of front trimmed off,
> > presuming no blade wobble.
> >      If anyone has a better idea, I would love to hear
> > of it.
> >      Thanks!
> >      Thump
> >
> >
> >
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