This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment MessageHi Alan, The case parts will present the biggest problem. The job you describe = can be done but it involves changing the back felt, balance rail felt, = and front rail felt. In the end it is faster to plane the surfaces down = to match the ezisting dimentions. If you do decide to try it, set C1 and C#1, C4 and C#4, G7 and G#7 as samples and balance them out so that everything works = correctly including trying with the fall board on to see that there is = enough clearance. The last time I chose to do this the top of the = plastic came out the same hight as the wood on the top of the sharp = keys. so there was no problem with the fall board but to get the correct = balance for dip I had to be a little shal we say creative, Especially = since the balance rail was warped and sagged down between the hold down = screws. Also note hight of balance rail above the key button and how = much the end of the key enters the key front. Joe Goss imatunr@srvinet.com www.mothergoosetools.com ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Alan=20 To: Pianotech=20 Sent: Friday, August 01, 2003 6:38 PM Subject: Thick of it! Got a rush job to put plastic tops where there once was ivory in an = vintage upright ... If I'm going to rebed and level all the keys with = new felts anyway, is it really, reeeeeally necessary to take the tops = down to make up for the difference in the thickness of the plastic vs. = ivory? (Was that a run-on sentence, or what? Sorry, Mrs. Z.) Alan R. Barnard Salem, MO --- Outgoing mail is certified Virus Free. Checked by AVG anti-virus system (http://www.grisoft.com). Version: 6.0.495 / Virus Database: 294 - Release Date: 6/30/2003 ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment An HTML attachment was scrubbed... URL: https://www.moypiano.com/ptg/pianotech.php/attachments/27/9e/8a/f7/attachment.htm ---------------------- multipart/alternative attachment--
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