overcentering justified?

A440A@aol.com A440A@aol.com
Wed, 20 Aug 2003 07:05:16 EDT


Bob writes: 
<<   The bore distance I used was the result of doing the simple math: 
subtracting the heighth of the hammer flange center pin from the string height ( and 
not accounting for a rising string). 
I don't think that there is enough said about that kind of potential error.  
<< 

    I know that I have mentioned it several times, but there seem to be few 
that actually take a small square and lay it on the strings to compare with a 
line drawn on the hammer.   I have Steinway shanks with various bore length 
hammers on them, glued up and kept in a box that I use.  I have seen the treble 
bores need to vary from 44 mm to 49 mm in order for the hammer to be 90 degrees 
to both shank and string. However, some actions will not accept the 
regulation needed for the extremely short bore that some top octaves call for.  In 
these cases, you have to make adjustments in hammer angle if you want to keep 
things square.  


>>Tomorrow, I want to plug a couple of these long bored hammers and rebore 
them at the distance of 48 mm like the old ones.(Instead of the 2 inch bore)  
Then, I will try those on the piano before I do the rest.  Is this a smart 
approach?  I tried regulating (aftertouch priority method) the long bored hammers  
and their new shanks but to get a note to play really well, a real short blow 
was required, like 41 mm.<<

   In this case, you might want to take your aftertouch down to an absolute 
minimum, like .020".  

>>The plugs will need to be end grain on the side, true?  What is the best 
way to make those?  A hardwood dowel would have incorrect grain orientation I 
think.   >>

   I have always used old Steinway shanks, the small ones with the long 
taper.  I glue them in with Tite-bond and have never had a problem.  by the time 
you drill the hole, you will not have too much of the dowel left, and the grain 
that is in there acts like a spacer.  A "proper" plug will have very short 
wood fibers left.  I haven't had a problem with using the dowel in this 
application. 
Good luck, 
Ed Foote 
(I would use some scrap hammers before I began plugging up the actual ones I 
will use). 
 

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