(no subject)

[gordon stelter]

Does anyone use a laminate trimmer router bit for
keytops? If not, why? If so, how, if you pleeze?
     Thump

--- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> Hi,
> Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean off
> with water.
> I take the keytop surface down to compenasate for
> the different thickness, of the one piece plastic
> keytop I use.
> I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.
> I still use a disc/belt sander to get the keytops
> close to size , and finish off with a file.
> I would not use contact cement.
> There is no telling how long it will take you to do
> your first job, I remember one guy telling me it
> took him 12 hours.
> Your time will improve as you get your methods and
> jigs in line.
> Regards,
> John M. Ross
> Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
>   ----- Original Message ----- 
>   From: Mickey Kessler 
>   To: pianotech@ptg.org 
>   Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM
>   Subject: (no subject)
> 
> 
>   Hi all,
> 
>   I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a PSO
> owned by my cousin.  If this were a really good
> instrument I'd probably just send the keys out to a
> recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole thing
> over to somebody who's really into rebuilding, which
> I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather, an
> opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it for
> the experience.
> 
>   A few questions:
> 
>   1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based on
> using contact cement.  This scares me; it doesn't
> allow for much error.  On the other hand, if I use
> more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping, which
> the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says to
> shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to line
> up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can anybody
> recommend a better procedure that will also ensure
> uniformity?  And while we're on the subject, what's
> the best glue to use?
> 
>   2.  The supply houses sell a variety of keytops. 
> Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and fronts
> as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that I'll
> use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble? Would I
> learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get thick
> or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece tops
> require clamping in two directions?
> 
>   3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the
> wood?  Can I do that without the expensive Oslund
> machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must the
> surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm
> guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a lot
> of unevenness -- am I wrong?
> 
>   4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should
> allot for the job?
> 
>   Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all your
> knowledge.  I've learned more from this group than
> from just about any other source.  The generosity of
> this profession is truly admirable.
> 
>   Mickey Kessler
>   PTG Assoc.
> 
> 


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