Keytop trimming

[gordon stelter]

I presume that you trim on a table with the key upside
down, right?
     Thanks!
     Thump
     The Notchin' Novice
     

--- David Love <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Yes, but be careful at the fronts that you done take
> off the lip.  Just use
> it along the edges for rough trimming and then clean
> with a file.
> 
> David Love
> davidlovepianos@earthlink.net
> 
> 
> 
> > [Original Message]
> > From: gordon stelter <lclgcnp@yahoo.com>
> > To: Pianotech <pianotech@ptg.org>
> > Date: 2/14/2003 7:06:22 PM
> > Subject: Re: (no subject)
> >
> > Does anyone use a laminate trimmer router bit for
> > keytops? If not, why? If so, how, if you pleeze?
> >      Thump
> >
> > --- John Ross <jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca> wrote:
> > > Hi,
> > > Use PVC-E glue, no clamping required, easy clean
> off
> > > with water.
> > > I take the keytop surface down to compenasate
> for
> > > the different thickness, of the one piece
> plastic
> > > keytop I use.
> > > I use a jig on my Shopsmith to do this.
> > > I still use a disc/belt sander to get the
> keytops
> > > close to size , and finish off with a file.
> > > I would not use contact cement.
> > > There is no telling how long it will take you to
> do
> > > your first job, I remember one guy telling me it
> > > took him 12 hours.
> > > Your time will improve as you get your methods
> and
> > > jigs in line.
> > > Regards,
> > > John M. Ross
> > > Windsor, Nova Scotia, Canada
> > > jrpiano@win.eastlink.ca
> > >   ----- Original Message ----- 
> > >   From: Mickey Kessler 
> > >   To: pianotech@ptg.org 
> > >   Sent: Wednesday, February 12, 2003 9:09 PM
> > >   Subject: (no subject)
> > > 
> > > 
> > >   Hi all,
> > > 
> > >   I'm considering replacing all the keytops on a
> PSO
> > > owned by my cousin.  If this were a really good
> > > instrument I'd probably just send the keys out
> to a
> > > recovering house (actually, I'd turn the whole
> thing
> > > over to somebody who's really into rebuilding,
> which
> > > I'm not), but it's a piece of junk -- or rather,
> an
> > > opportunity for learning -- so I want to do it
> for
> > > the experience.
> > > 
> > >   A few questions:
> > > 
> > >   1.  Reblitz describes a procedure that's based
> on
> > > using contact cement.  This scares me; it
> doesn't
> > > allow for much error.  On the other hand, if I
> use
> > > more forgiving glue, it'll require clamping,
> which
> > > the Reblitz procedure seems to preclude (he says
> to
> > > shim a straightedge to the keyslip in order to
> line
> > > up all the keyfronts exactly the same).  Can
> anybody
> > > recommend a better procedure that will also
> ensure
> > > uniformity?  And while we're on the subject,
> what's
> > > the best glue to use?
> > > 
> > >   2.  The supply houses sell a variety of
> keytops. 
> > > Any preferences regarding one-piece tops and
> fronts
> > > as opposed to two-piece?  I'm thinking now that
> I'll
> > > use the one-piece.  Am I asking for trouble?
> Would I
> > > learn more by using two-piece?  Should I get
> thick
> > > or thin or doesn't it matter?  Do the one-piece
> tops
> > > require clamping in two directions?
> > > 
> > >   3.  Do I need to figure on resurfacing all the
> > > wood?  Can I do that without the expensive
> Oslund
> > > machines that Reblitz describes?  How bad must
> the
> > > surface be before it should be resurfaced?  I'm
> > > guessing the thick plastic tops will take up a
> lot
> > > of unevenness -- am I wrong?
> > > 
> > >   4.  Any thoughts about how much time I should
> > > allot for the job?
> > > 
> > >   Thanks to everybody out there for sharing all
> your
> > > knowledge.  I've learned more from this group
> than
> > > from just about any other source.  The
> generosity of
> > > this profession is truly admirable.
> > > 
> > >   Mickey Kessler
> > >   PTG Assoc.
> > > 
> > > 
> >
> >
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