> It has been. Or, I can determine the bridge height at C-8 by measurement > determined by string height, make the bridge in it's entirety from that and > my pattern, and put the thing in. I've also made bridges from just the > original bridge height, my pattern, and the crown under load estimates > produced by my spreadsheet with no problem. I don't want to do the > "traditional" bearing setting method of gouging the bridge cap and planing > it down. I want to put a laminated cap of pre-determined thickness on a > bridge of pre-determined thickness and put it in the piano a minimum number > of times. I'm a long way from being efficient, but I'd rather do a little > more planning and a little less physical labor if I possibly can. I kinda-sorta did the same thing on my recent job and was real happy with the outcome. I made the bridge root thicker than needed (keep in mind this was my first bridge! - lots of idiot-proofing procedures built into the approach - although not enough!) and made the laminated (5-ply) bridge cap separately. I measured the bridge cap thickness (if I recall correctly, it was about 10 or 11 mm). Then I made up a nice little block of wood the same thickness of the bridge cap. I simply planed the bridge root down to the thickness where the root plus the wooden cap block produced the desired downbearing in that section. Once all that was set, I epoxy (the epoxy man striketh) cap (laminated with epoxy, of course)on and preserve the integrity of the laminated cap. Very, very happy with this process. I don't have the action done on this piano yet (have to rebuild action and keys, etc. yet), but by plucking, there appears to not be one single false beat. Gosh, I hope I am not speaking to early on this!!! Terry Farrell ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Nossaman" <RNossaman@cox.net> To: <davidlovepianos@earthlink.net>; "Pianotech" <pianotech@ptg.org> Sent: Monday, July 21, 2003 10:37 AM Subject: Re: soundboardinstal again > > >So then, is your procedure is to temporarily screw the bridge to the board, > >lay the board in the piano, put in the plate, clamp it down in a few places > >and set the bearing, then remove everything and notch and pin the bridge > >clamped to a 1x10? > > It has been. Or, I can determine the bridge height at C-8 by measurement > determined by string height, make the bridge in it's entirety from that and > my pattern, and put the thing in. I've also made bridges from just the > original bridge height, my pattern, and the crown under load estimates > produced by my spreadsheet with no problem. I don't want to do the > "traditional" bearing setting method of gouging the bridge cap and planing > it down. I want to put a laminated cap of pre-determined thickness on a > bridge of pre-determined thickness and put it in the piano a minimum number > of times. I'm a long way from being efficient, but I'd rather do a little > more planning and a little less physical labor if I possibly can. > > > >If so, how do you support the plate over the board at > >the correct height, as well as hold it down around the perimeter so that > >you can wedge it down to set bearing? > > Sitting on one nose bolt and the pinblock, normally. If it's badly warped, > I might clamp it down to level with blocks and clamps over the rim. It > depends on what I've got to work with. I'm probably going to hang the plate > on adjustable perimeter bolts anyway, and hopefully with vertical hitches, > so there is some tolerance here. > > Ron N > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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