>At 2:25 AM -0700 3/29/03, Dave Nereson wrote:
>Bending pins to center the jack in the rep. lever hole (other
>alternatives are to install a new jack and hope it's straight, or
>plug the center pin hole with ??? and re-drill it, which I've never
>tried. Or put in a whole new wippen). Yes, center pin. By
>vertical, I think he means centered in the window, as opposed to the
>jack rubbing on the wippen because of a jack center pin hole drilled
>crooked (or jack warpage, or sloppy bushing).
Thanks, Dave, for a great job of answering Terry's questions. You
were right on the mark. (Including the humor about the air nailer. It
was a pre-emptive joke. I figured somebody would suggest I was
tapping the tops of the jacks too hard, so I tossed in a wisecrack
about the air nailer alot of us are stringing with now.)
When you rap the top of the jack (firmly supporting the body of the
rep underneath the jack's pinning), the top nudges over because that
rap has actually bent the jack's CP. The beech of these parts is so
brittle that, the normally minor force required to bend the pin
shears the jack instead of pending the pin. To center the jack in the
rep lever's window, the jack pin still needs a slight bend. In this
case I'll have to bend the pin before pinning the parts together.
I didn't have a whole lot of time Thursday evening to perfect this
trick of bending the pin outside of the parts, something I heard from
Bill Garlick. But I was inserting the pin into the parts so there was
equal amounts extending from each side. I then nipped a mm. off the
flat end with the flush cutters, for a reference line (vertical).
With a tiny pair of needle-nose, I put a modest bend in the pin
(similar to what you'd find if you pulled the pin out of a cradled
jack and asked it to roll on a flat surface) at a distance from that
nipped end equal to the width of the bushed wood which the jack will
slip in between. I next inserted the pin until the the nipped end
was flush to the wood. Now it is possible by rotating the pin (and
its bend just outside the bushing) to lean the jack to centered.
Too big a bend, and you have a badly binding pin, off-centered to its
bushing. Thursday evening, I was making my bends "in the beech", and
it was hard to control to get the required amount of bending without
binding. I think I'll try doing the pin bending with the pin in the
jaws of a machinist vice. There's probably not more than a dozen
which require bending.
What this means for the durability of the parts under normal playing
circumstances, I don't know.
At 2:25 AM -0700 3/29/03, Dave Nereson wrote:
>I would go for all new jacks.
Schaff is the only catalog selling jacks separately. The reps and
jacks are a good match for the Tokiwa universal reps with a tall
heel. I asked somebody at Schaff to send me three of the "Chickering
jacks" if they at all matched the shape of the jacks on the Tokiwa
reps, and they didn't. I've run out the the old Steinway jacks which
pulled me through the first six I fractured trying to cradle. (You
undo the mortise&tenon joint with vinegar, scrape the old glue out of
the joint, with a razor blade put a 14º bevel in the front surface of
the fly (vertical) where the tender butts against it, and reglue. The
only modification is that the angle between the fly and tender goes
from 90º to 104º.)
It's a little late in the game for new jacks (even if they were
available). I'd go for an entire set of new reps. But the proposal
was 18 months ago, and it took the church 12 months to get the grant
approved. The church may have to scrape together the money for new
reps some year, but not this one.
At 2:25 AM -0700 3/29/03, Dave Nereson wrote:
> Beech is pretty darn dense stuff. You will not be able to
>"impregnate" beech with epoxy.
It may have been dense 100 years ago, but now it's down around the
toughness of cherry. Oh, the things you add to the list of stuff to
watch for, which you wish was already on that list!
Bill Ballard RPT
NH Chapter, P.T.G.
"May you work on interesting pianos."
...........Ancient Chinese Proverb
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