That works. You can also lacquer from the side of the hammer applying the lacquer at the core and letting it wick slowly outward stopping short of the outer layers. David Love davidlovepianos@earthlink.net > [Original Message] > From: David C. Stanwood <stanwood@tiac.net> > To: <pianotech@ptg.org> > Date: 5/10/2003 7:03:19 AM > Subject: Re: Wurzen felt > > Love the conversation about felt and voicing! > > I have to share this quote from a grand master: > > "The art of hammer making has ever been to obtain a solid, firm > foundation, graduating in softness and elasticity toward the top surface, > which latter has to be silky and elastic in order to produce a mild, soft > tone for pianissimo playing, but with sufficient resistance back of it to > permit the hard blow of fortissimo playing." Alfred Dolge - Pianos and > their Makers 1911 > > For me hammer felt voicing is all about a balance between hammer weight, > density gradient, and resiliency. > > Lacquer builds density at the expense of resiliency. A common problem with > lacquer is that flooding the whole hammer hardens the surface fibers and > makes for unpleasent pianissimo tone... a good lacquer technique is to > juice the shoulder with lacquer and immediately juice the crown with > solvent or thin lacquer. The thinner solution draws the harder lacquer > out of the shoulder thinning it as it gets closer to the crown creating a > density gradient while at the same time acting as a resist, keeping the > harder lacquer out of the crown surface. > > David Stanwood > > _______________________________________________ > pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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