Hi Ed, Some good suggestions. But I still think the basic problem is that the backchecks are installed too high. At let-off, the tails are significantly below the tops of the backchecks. But your suggestions could solve the problems until I can get the real problem corrected. Thanks. Avery At 08:11 PM 05/27/03 -0400, you wrote: >Avery writes: > >newest D. I don't know if it was done that way at the factory or at the > >dealer but the backcheck height is appreciably too high. I've had "clunking" > >noises from the hammer shoulder rebounding on it; notes failing to repeat > >in a very fast repetitive "situation" (had complaints about it), because the > >shoulder was getting hung up on the backcheck > > Greetings, > I have seen this problem before, also. The fix? a sharp knife! The >very lowest portion of those hammers are probably solidified with lacquer, >and if >not, you can go ahead and soak them sufficiently to keep the felt from moving >around. Then, take a utility knife and carve as much felt out of the way for >clearance. It won't take off enough to worry about weight changes,(given the >surrealistically erratic SW found on factory hammers), and the hammer >integrity won't suffer if there is a solid matrix of felt and lacquer down >there. > > > >(I couldn't make the hammer > >check high enough because the checks were too high), plus what has already > >been mentioned about the tails rubbing on the backchecks. > >>I'm going to replace the backchecks and wires and set them so that the > tail >at letoff > >is app. 2 mm. above the backcheck, assuming the hammer bore distance is >correct, > >of course. :-) > > Often, when there are tails rubbing leather, (mmm, sounds like a x-rated >cowboy movie) and hammers bouncing off the checks, I have found that the >inter-relationship of back-check angle and tail shape are the root >problem. I would >suggest that you take a few of the hammers and shanks off, and with a >divider, check to see if the curve of the tail matches a radius of 2 >9/16". If not, >then see if there is enough wood left to allow you to re-carve them to this >radius. Sometimes the factory hammers are shaped with a significantly smaller >radius and the tails drag at about their middle. > Once done, see that at rest the backcheck is leaning distally slightly >beyond a 90 degree angle to the shank. This is a good starting >point. Assuming >a proper keydip, you should be able to get the hammers to check no more than >1/2" from the strings with no bouncing off. >Let us know what happens, >Regards, > >Ed Foote RPT >www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/ >www.uk-piano.org/edfoote/well_tempered_piano.html > <A HREF="http://artists.mp3s.com/artists/399/six_degrees_of_tonality.html"> >MP3.com: Six Degrees of Tonality</A> >_______________________________________________ >pianotech list info: https://www.moypiano.com/resources/#archives
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