Loose Tuning Pins

[Bill Ballard]

At 10:16 PM -0500 11/13/03, Crashvalve@aol.com wrote:
>If there is some clearence from bottom of coil and plate/bushing, 
>try to pop dem down further into the block. Try a rock hammer. 
>Torque values go 20%-50% higher.

My first and favorite remedy. It's amazing how much strength you can 
get out of the 1/8" or so of the deep end of the hole, which has 
never had to do any work before. Some tuning pins may even go into 
the "Bend & Snap" zone. (Anyone else remember in Reese Witherspoon in 
"Legally Blonde"?

>If way lucky pins are tapered.

You won't be so lucky if you drive them with a rock hammer instead of 
a tack hammer. A little tap is all you need. Driving the entire set 
of pins with  heavy hammer can quickly install alot of pressure 
inside that block! DAMHIK)

>If you repin try same length and two sizes larger since you lose 
>some hole diameter in reaming action just pulling the old pin. Same 
>for hammering in new pin so no need to ream otherwise.

How much room for over-length pins there is depends on the depth of 
the factory's original boring (and sometimes this can be sadly 
shallow in a vertical piano). But I've combined the use of the deep 
end of the hole with the step up in diameter to good effect. It's a 
shame not to make use of both areas of strength. Relying on only one 
(say, pin diameter) would seem to stress the block unduly.

The thing that always amazes me is that a piano with not very tight 
pins can stay very solidly in tune. Tuning stability is affected by 
pinblock grip to a positive degree up to maybe 80 "/#. Beyond that it 
isn't a big player in tuning stability and at about 150-180 "/3 can 
actually send it South.

Bill Ballard RPT
NH Chapter, P.T.G.

"Trust me, you've got all the equipment, You just need to read the manual"
     ...........Reese Witherspoon in "Legally Blonde"
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