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Merci bien, Isaac. That's a great idea to stand at the side of the =
piano and look at lines reflected in the keytops, to check the final =
alignment. I've tried a small laser pointer, too, putting it on the top =
few keys and depressing them to align it to the keytops, but it's not =
very useful practically. The first high key stops the beam.
--Cy Shuster--
Rochester, MN
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Isaac sur Noos=20
To: Pianotech=20
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2003 4:24 PM
Subject: RE: Leveling Sticks WAS: Steinway D key levelling (Hamburg =
model)
CY,
Train yourself to insert open paper punchings. The key level was done =
once, and unless the actyion is really tired you can level a lot without =
having to disassemble the action.
Anyway, after having made a leveling with the weights, when you put =
everything back in the piano, yoy always have to insert supplement =
punching (or compress some others) to have your "perfect" level.
The final test is that you shoud see in the keyboard lines reflected =
like in a mirror (no scales)
For that reason it is important to straighten the front of the ley to =
compensate for bushing wear, or decompensate ith the bushing have been =
renewed.
I don't believe in leveling on the bench, only rough leveling can be =
done there. The precise job can only be done with the action in place =
and in the piano.
By precise job I mean, the height of the keys is consistent, and the =
pressure on the bolts is even, andfront and back of the key frame are =
bedded.
I precut batches of paper punching (Yamaha ones) with my center pin =
cutter, and check the level with my rule (eben a short rule is OF for =
flat keybeds. Then I eyeball what punchings I will need and I install =
them under the front punching felt.
Then I take the action at 45=B0 and install those.
The black keys are easier to insert from below.
While holding the action at 45 =B0 there is enough weight on the keys =
to check for holes.
You can also check with a light finger the surface of the keys, it is =
easy to feel the holes and their size while sliding a finger along the =
keys.
Take care not to scratch the strecher with the drop screw, mars are =
not very decoratives.
I just dressed an almost complete Yamaha C3 keyboard this afternoon , =
not done since 18 years.
Took me 1hour 1/2 whites and sharps. ( but I was not necessary to ad =
very thick punchings , only a few 0.15 mm and a few 0.008 mm ones)
BTW the correct size for the paper punching is around half of the =
thickness of the "hole" with some experience you choose the right amount =
immediately.
I've not seen how the use a "heavy rule" at the Steinway factory, but =
I understand it is an appliable method, as you always have to finish =
with the stack screwed. I have on some occasion pre-dressed a keyboard =
with my fingers pressure at the back of the keys, not perfect but it =
worked.=20
As often, in piano regulation, it is useless to try to attain =
perfection at the first pass, unless you fairly know what you are doing =
exactly.
Working the most in front of the instrument gives you whit time a =
better understanding on how things evolve , and an immediate control on =
what you are changing.
Hope that helps.
Regards.
Isaac OLEG
Isaac OLEG
Entretien et r=E9paration de pianos.
PianoTech
17 rue de Choisy
94400 VITRY sur SEINE
FRANCE
tel : 033 01 47 18 06 98
fax : 033 01 47 18 06 90
cell: 06 60 42 58 77=20
-----Message d'origine-----
De : pianotech-bounces@ptg.org [mailto:pianotech-bounces@ptg.org]De =
la part de Cy Shuster
Envoy=E9 : lundi 20 octobre 2003 15:11
=C0 : Pianotech
Objet : Re: Leveling Sticks WAS: Steinway D key levelling (Hamburg =
model)
Would a length of chain be heavy enough? A sock full of pennies =
(finally, a use for them)? I guess from Ron's comment I should go =
search the archives -- sorry to rehash old stuff, but since I'm =
learning, it's interesting.
--Cy Shuster--
Rochester, MN
----- Original Message -----=20
From: Farrell=20
To: Pianotech=20
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2003 6:56 AM
Subject: Re: Leveling Sticks WAS: Steinway D key levelling =
(Hamburg model)
I had never heard of this idea before now. Interesting. I think I =
understand what is being described. A rod packed with loose-fitting =
washers. The loose washer allows a key being removed to push up the few =
washers at its location without disturbing other washers sitting on =
other keys. Right? Where do you lay the washer-rod? Seems like anywhere =
forward of the backcheck would be problematic - but then there isn't =
much room behind the backcheck....... Additional info would be =
appreciated.
Terry Farrell
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