Glue cleanup on ribs

[Erwinspiano@aol.com]

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   Hi Terry
   Keith was there yesterday and his comments on the pins was correct. As to 
tapering  I assumne you mean the feathered ends? Yes ,they are tapered. Every 
thing is done to the rib except final sanding and finishing before the ribs 
are glued on. The feathered pieces are cut off with a band saw ,numbered ,marked 
and saved. Then when the ribs are pressed the glue is applied then the saved 
pieces are fit to the spot they were cut from so the fire hose has something 
to press against. 
   The feathered area on the rib is sanded and cleaned up on a stationery 
belt sander laid down flat and use of the curved part of the roller as well as 
the flat surface is utilized to smooth out the bandsaw marks. The rib is drawn 
over this toward you. Finger pressure is applied to the spots needing the most 
attention as its drawn toward you over the flat surface. Not very clear but 
that's it.
   Even the backs of the rib are radiuesed nicely  on a router with a large 
radiusing bit. very uniform and duplicatable. So when the board is pressed 
nothing is left to do as far as wood working to the ribs is required . It's done 
and I like the part of it.
      Dale Erwin
  
Hello Dale. I'm looking for a few more details describing your (or anyone's) 
center-pin-anti-skid methods. I was planning on trying something like that for 
my next board. I imagine the pins penetrate the panel side of the rib maybe 4 
to 8 millimeters (just enough to gain solid footing) and penetrate the panel 
just a few millimeters (just enough to hold in position) - is that correct? Do 
you taper your ribs before gluing to panel - how do you handle running a pin 
through the thinner ends of the rib? Do you just use two pins per rib 
(obviously on short ribs) or do you maybe use three or more on the longer ribs?

One other thought on glue cleanup - one thing that I was going to try to 
implement - which relates to access for cleaning the glue joint squeeze-out. 
Adjust the top beam of the pneumatic clamp so that the hose can inflate most of its 
diameter (obviously maintaining full contact/pressure on rib). If the hose is 
allowed to inflate a goodly amount of its diameter, rather than allowing only 
a half-inch of its diameter and blobbing over the sides of the rib, you 
should be able to maximize access to the rib/panel joint for cleanup. Or at least I 
will be trying that next time.

Thanks.

Terry Farrell
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