Baldwin Hamilton loose side panels

[Ron Nossaman]

>I recommend using a tilter for this operation. However, you need to have 
>the appropriate clamps. These clamps need to be pipe clamps with the 
>extension jaws, so that you can put the clamp under the tilter frame and 
>still clamp in the middle of the panel. The reason the piano has to sit on 
>it's back, is so that the back frame and the panels are aligned by the 
>frame of the tilter. Of course, sometimes the panel slightly extends past 
>the posts, so you'll need to put a shim or ? so that proper alignment is 
>accomplished. Because there is still some glue in the orfice, I recommend 
>epoxy to fill the voids and still get good bonding. (mask off the seam(s) 
>so that the darned stuff doesn't all run out!<G>) Although, Gorilla glue 
>is good for some things, it's one of those glues that take forever to get 
>really "hard". It is flexible! As this is not what you want, the epoxy is 
>a better choice. Besides, there are some glues it won't stick very well 
>to. Not knowing the specifics of the original glue used can be a problem. 
>Epoxy sticks to everything! (As we all know!<G>)
>Best Regards,
>Joe Garrett, R.P.T.

Joe,
Easier, or at least more accurate alignment can be had by drilling 
(carefully measured depth) 3/8 or thereabouts holes from inside the back 
post, and about half way into the side. Do one at the top, and one at the 
bottom - before disassembly. When it's time to reassemble, a couple of 
dowel stubs act as tooling pins to accurately locate the side just where it 
was before. Titebond and padded pipe clamps do the rest. A tilter isn't 
really needed this way, if one isn't available, but you do have to lift the 
end and prop it high enough to get the screws out of the bottom board, and 
back in when you're finished.

Another approach.

Ron N